- Product Details
This American IPA beer kit has a relatively modest gravity and an immodest hop character derived entirely from a single hop variety. Chinook hops have long been used by US brewers for bittering additions, but their intense aroma and flavor have caught on only recently. This kit is a bit lower in gravity and lighter in body than our other IPA recipe kits, which enhances the perceived bitterness and reduces the aging requirements. It shows up in the glass with a reddish-gold color and a thick, resinous Chinook aroma that lingers after the glass is emptied.
- Additional Information
Beer Kit Yield 5 Gallons Recipe and Instructions Click Here for Chinook IPA Extract Kit Brewing Instructions Regional Style USA Original Gravity 1053 Total Time to Make 6 weeks
- 4.7 / 5.0293 Reviews2nd time as good as the first!Fermented at 67% for 22 days in the primary fermenter. (Dry hop additions on day 17). Brewed the Chinook IPA for a second time (almost a year apart) because I loved it so much the first time but also wanted to check my processes for consistency. It smells and tastes exactly as I remember. A great herbal, piney scent leads way to a crisp and clean taste with just enough malt presence; with a smooth yet bitter finish. I agree with others who added an additional hop variety for complexity, but personally I really enjoy the simplicity of this recipe as you can really appreciate what each ingredient (especially the Chinook hop, obviously) brings to the table. This beer pairs well with a lot of different food options...my faviorite being any spicy mexican dish.December 21, 2010Delicious beer with a nice hop characterThis beer is delicious. It has just now been in the bottle for 2 weeks and already over half of the fruits of my labor are gone. The hop character is great and the beer is a lovely orange color. Nice head and great lacing. I highly recommend this beer if you like hop bitter and aroma (it is a citrus type hop bite that is just wonderful).June 1, 2011Excellent IPAThis beer was great. I am a hop head but was slightly hesitant on a single hop IPA. This beer went above and beyond what I had expected. The aroma was great, nice and hoppy. The beer was bitter but was very well balanced. It poured a nice golden rod color with bright white head. The head was extremely dense and lasted the entire beer with strong lacing down the entire glass. I would brew this anytime of the year and will likely become part of the standard brewing rotation.March 9, 2012True to FormThis beer bites back a bit (but what do you expect from an IPA)...I enjoyed it...admittedly it grew on me...and I went through it pretty quickly. I'll very likely brew it again!July 30, 2011Fabulous IPAFirst brew in about five years, mostly because the local availability of specialty beers is excellent, but I'm glad I gave it a go. Broke it out on Christmas Eve with some family and they all loved it. I will definitely be making this one again.December 29, 2011Awesome brewFollowed the directions exactly. This one has everything. A fantastic aroma to start with. An initial taste and aftertaste that is just what the brew doctor ordered. A beautiful lace that follows the brew down to the last drop. This will no doubt be my Summer beer for many years to come. I brewed in June and am now down to my last few bottles in November. A big thumbs up on this one!November 17, 2011Great IPAThis has become my go to beer to play with, oaked one batch and now I have an addition of smoked malt with the specialty grain in the fermentor. I know this one will turn out very tasty. Such a easy and versatile recipe to play with. I have brewed this 5 out of the last 9 batches, and I plan to keep it going at this rate as all my friends keep asking for it.May 3, 2012Perfect brewfor the first time brewer as this ale will leave you thinking it was all worth it. Awesome smelll and taste and not too heavy. Even some of my non hoppy friends liked this one. I will brew this kit more than any other kit available.January 6, 2012Light and hoppyThis IPA came out with a nice reddish-gold color. It is light with a nice crisp hop flavor. I definitely recommend it.November 12, 2013Excellent IPA!Friends all loved it and some couldn't believe I made it myself - others said they would pay for a beer like this if they could find it in the stores. Noticed that the "piney" flavors really came out if drunk cool instead of refrigerator-cold. Will make this one again!April 15, 2012
- Browse 12 questions Browse 12 questions and 33 answersThis is going to be my second brew. I still have only a primary and I am okay with that right now. I know in the "Getting Started DVD" it says to add a week to primary fermentation if you don't have a secondary. Should I add yet another week, with the final week being the dry hop stage? So leave it sit in primary for 3 weeks then add dry hops for a week and then bottle at 4 weeks. Any suggestions on dry hopping in the primary? I am really not looking to get a secondary yet so please, just responses concerning someone who just has a primary for now. Thanks!BEST ANSWER: did you take an original gravity reading?( O.G.), your recipe should give you the estimated O.G. reading and F.G. ( final gravity) reading. this can give you a better estimate if your beer is ready to transfer out of the primary stage ( Northerner Brewer has brewer personal on hand for that advice) . since I get excited brewing my beer I forget sometimes to get my readings ( with an alcohol hydrometer and measurement tube). so as a rule of thumb for me, I ferment my beer a maximum 4 weeks in the primary, then I transfer either into the secondary fermenter for conditioning of the beer or transfer into the bottle. depends on the recipe and/or hops, if using the primary as the only fermenting process, then go a full 4 weeks, and add dry hops ( in my honest opinion) I would add the hops on the third week and let it set 2 weeks in the primary stage. if you're unsure, you can add at the final week, but you may have an over powering hop effect. it also depends on the hop being used and the acidy percentage.I just got this as my my recipe to brew....complete newbie to home brewing. Question though - it came with multiple yeast packs but the directions don't say to use or or two. Any thoughts? Don't want to ruin my first attempt right out of the gate.BEST ANSWER: Hi Justin,
If you have extra yeast, I would pitch the both. This beer doesn't have a super high starting gravity, but it is big enough that extra yeast would be helpful. There are a few good pitching rate calculators online that can help homebrewers pitch the correct amount of yeast. This is the one I usually refer to:
The general rule of thumb is that if your wort has more sugar, you'll need more yeast to ferment it. Hope that helps!
CharlesI got this kit for Christmas and started my first brew on 1/3. I could see it actively fermenting within 24 hours after adding the yeast, but as of today (1/9), there doesn't appear to be any activity in the primary fermenter. No bubbles in the airlock, and foam is nearly all gone. Is this normal? Should I move on?BEST ANSWER: That's actually normal, Jeffrey and not just for this particular brew. I usually leave it in the primary, wait until three weeks are up, dry hopping somewhere in the middle of that period and then bottle or keg it.
This is one of my favorite ales and I have brewed it several times over the past two years. Good luck.For the final fg I got 1.021 do I need to let it sit longer in secondary? Did I not leave it in the primary long enough? Cause of temp, yeast ect?BEST ANSWER: If you've done a few gravity checks (1-2 days a part), and it's stuck at 1.021, then it's most likely done fermenting.
Moving to secondary is not required, and is actually not an ideal thing to do (ignore the spec sheet on this, trust me, it opens you up to a world of headaches). Do you know what your Original Gravity was? How long as it been sitting in fermentation?I did not crush the dry hops before adding. After 2 weeks in secondary I still see residue floating around with some still on top. Is that normal?BEST ANSWER: Well, I don't think anyone crushes the pellet hops before adding to the secondary. The real issue is do you just dump them in (which you did, apparently) or but them in a muslm (or some other kind) of bag. Then do you weight them to make them sink to the bottom. I usually put them in a sanitized musim bag (soaked with sanitizer, of course) and let them float. I tried marbles and did not put enough in to sink. I do't recall ever seeing residue on top -- at least that I worried about. If it tastes okay, go with it. You can always avoid it by careful siphoning.what the fg suppost to be?BEST ANSWER: Hello,
Thank you for choosing Northern Brewer! That FG can vary depending on the yeast used, as well as with various fermentation parameters such as temperature, wort O2 levels, pitching rate, etc... That being said, the Chinook IPA should arrive at a final gravity of 1.010-1.015. I hope that this helps!What is typical alcohol content of Chinook IPAa/BEST ANSWER: Alcohol content is affected by many things but in my experience how much trub you leave in your boil kettle and how much make up water you use in your fermenter has the biggest effect. I will note that I have never had issues with incomplete fermentation which would be the other major variable. I have use dry yeast sprinkled on top of the wort in the fermenter.
In the last several batches I have not settled out the the boil pot but just moved it all (including hop debris) into the fermenter when when cool. This sounds messy but I have found that it does not add significantly to the amount of trub in the bottom of the fermenter at the end of fermentation and it allows me to get the maximum of the wort into the finished beer, minimizing wort dilution by make up water. I usually ferment on the lower end of the yeast's ideal range which may slow things down a bit but this does have an effect on the clarity of your finished product. Be patient, with this process I have been getting around 4.5-4.8% ABV. As a side benefit to using all your boiled material without settling I find that in lower gravity beers I get healthier fermentation without the need for any additional nutrients - one less thing to add to your boil. This is a great IPA with a hop forward flavor and great balance. I am not normally a big IPA lover but this one is worthy of the IPA title without being over the top hoppy and out of balance.I brewed for the first last week, Chinook IPA with specialty grains, and every thing went well, and fermentation was very active in less than 24 hours. The ambient temp is too high--due to the warm fall we are experiencing in Florida the wort temp is around 78 degrees. Four days in and the fermenation has slowed, bubbly about once every 5 minutes. There's really nothing I can do to cool this down. What kind of effect is this going to have on the beer? And should I expect to move to the secondary fermenter early, like 5-7 days after brew?BEST ANSWER: Bob
The higher temps will allow the yeast to produce more fruity flavors so you will probably end up with a bit more yeast character in the finished beer. Fermentation can happen pretty fast at higher temps but it is still important to leave the beer in contact with the yeast as they are still working. I recommend at least 10-14 days in primary for any beer regardless of how fast the actual fermentation takes.
Northern Brewer LLCCan I leave my dry hops in for 2 weeks?BEST ANSWER: Yes, you can leave your dry hops in for 2 weeks, but it's better to pull them out in less than one week than over one week. Some say 3 to 5 days is best. It's best to leave your brew in the primary for longer than a week or two until you know you'll have the time to do the proper one week or less dry hop time and keg.what specialty grains come with this kit?BEST ANSWER: Abe,
Thank you for your question! The specialty grains in this kit are 0.75lbs of Belgian Cara 8 and 0.25lbs of Briess Caramel 120L. If you are curious about any of our other kits' specialty grains under the additional information tab we include the instruction sheet which has the specialty grains listed.
Cheers!For this kit, what are the IBU's and SRM's?BEST ANSWER: Estimated bitterness for this kit is about 60 IBUsDoes this kit come with a hopped LME or do I provide all the hops?BEST ANSWER: This kit includes unhopped extract as well as the hops need to make the beer.