Top Navigation Kegging & Bottling


Short Pour – Why Bother With Bottles?

Seems like the answer should be pretty straight-forward: “So I can drink it!”…right? After all, almost everybody who brews started out by bottling their beer.

the last straw bottle filler from keg to bottle in 15 seconds

The Last Straw™ Bottle Filler NEW!

Now You Can Bottle Your Carbonated Beer Straight From Your Keg!

The Last Straw™ makes bottling day a pleasure instead of a chore with ergonomic handling and quick response time giving you the ability to fill your bottles faster.


Short Pour – Draught Systems: The Perfect Balance

Every homebrewer dreams of the day when they can kiss bottling goodbye. Upgrading to a kegging system says a lot about you. You like control. Quality. You’re committed. So when you pour your hard earned cash into a draught system, foam is no longer acceptable.


Short Pour – Kegerators come in all shapes and sizes… it’s more fun if you build your own!

Let’s face it. Regardless of how long you’ve been brewing, bottling your beer is a tedious process. Washing, filling, and capping dozens of bottles makes for a very long day.

Dry Hopping Your Homebrew

Have you ever wondered how some beers get that amazing hop punch in the flavor and aroma? Part of it could be from dry hopping. Check out this video on how to dry hop your homebrew. Then in the comment section below let us know some of your tricks, techniques and experiences with dry hopping.

Over Carbonated Beer

Look familiar? Bottle carbonating beer isn’t a complicated process, but to get consistent result across many batches requires a bit of extra planning.

Keezer Build: Converting a Chest Freezer for Science (and Beer)

KeezerConverting a Chest Freezer for Science (and Beer)

Keezer, Kegerator, Breezer, Corny Chest, Freezerator. These are all words one could use to describe the beer dispensing system that was in need of building at Northern Brewer Minneapolis up until early afternoon today. Let me explain how important and helpful this magical device that we just built will be. Like any of you who might brew frequently, we have a lot of batches of beer that need to be kegged and drank. Trying to accomplish this in a basic chest freezer with plastic picnic taps running from Corny kegs was just not cutting it anymore. Some sloppy pouring from plastic picnic tap lines and one sighting of a bit of mold was more than enough to encourage us all that we needed Perlick faucets and organized, clean beverage lines a.s.a.p.
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Bottle Carbonating

Bottle conditioning is the process of naturally carbonating beer by adding a priming solution (water + some type of sugar) to the flat beer immediately before bottling to initiate a “re-fermentation” in the bottle. The CO2 produced from the re-fermentation in the bottle is absorbed into the beer, creating carbonation. The amount of carbonation in the finished beer can be controlled by adjusting the amount of sugar in the priming solution. After priming and filling, the newly bottled beer should be stored at 70-75F for 2-3 weeks or until fully carbonated. After this time the bottles can be chilled or stored below 60 degrees to stabilize the beer.

Bottle conditioning also has an effect on the flavor and aroma of the beer due to the presence of active yeast in the bottle. The yeast in the bottle is able to reabsorb or process byproducts from fermentation eventually rounding out or mellowing the flavors. It can also extend the shelf life of beer by delaying the staling effects of oxidation.

Many different types of sugar can be used for bottle carbonation, including corn sugar (dextrose), table sugar (sucrose), or dry malt extract. In order to properly determine the amount of sugar to use, you need to take into account the temperature of the beer and the volume as well as the type of sugar and the level of carbonation desired. Northern Brewer’s Priming Sugar Calculator is a good resource for determining the amount of sugar to use.

When a batch of beer fails to carbonate in the bottle there are a few common causes. After fermentation the yeast cells that remain in solution may be too stressed or too few to re-start fermentation in the bottle. The likelihood of this happening increases with the length of secondary fermentation and the alcoholic strength of the beer. To ensure proper re-fermentation, additional yeast can be added to the beer at bottling. You can use a fresh pack of the original yeast or use a neutral fermenting dry yeast such as the Danstar Nottingham ale yeast (y005).

Another common cause for lack of fermentation is storing the bottles in too cool an environment during conditioning. At cooler temperatures the remaining yeast will not be able to re-start fermentation in the bottle. Make sure the bottles are stored above 65F until the beer is fully carbonated. Sometimes warming the bottles and rousing the yeast from the bottom of the bottle get the process started. If that doesn’t work you may have to resort to dosing each bottle with a small amount of dry yeast after opening and then recapping the bottles.

Forgetting to add priming sugar and not getting a good seal on the bottle with the cap can be other reasons for lack of carbonation in the bottle. The easiest solution to these problems is to dose each bottle with additional sugar. The best way to do this is to open each bottle and add the pre-measured conditioning tabs to each bottle. Only dose with more sugar if you are sure that you forgot to add priming sugar or that the caps had a bad seal, otherwise the extra sugar can result in too much carbonation.

For more information on Bottle Conditioning, see our Advanced Guide to Bottle Conditioning.