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- Product Details
This American IPA beer kit has a relatively modest gravity and an immodest hop character derived entirely from a single hop variety. Chinook hops have long been used by US brewers for bittering additions, but their intense aroma and flavor have caught on only recently. This kit is a bit lower in gravity and lighter in body than our other IPA recipe kits, which enhances the perceived bitterness and reduces the aging requirements. It shows up in the glass with a reddish-gold color and a thick, resinous Chinook aroma that lingers after the glass is emptied.
- Additional Information
Beer Kit Yield 5 Gallons Recipe and Instructions Click Here for Chinook IPA Extract Kit Brewing Instructions Regional Style USA Original Gravity 1053 Total Time to Make 6 weeks
- 4.7 / 5.0307 Reviews2nd time as good as the first!Fermented at 67% for 22 days in the primary fermenter. (Dry hop additions on day 17). Brewed the Chinook IPA for a second time (almost a year apart) because I loved it so much the first time but also wanted to check my processes for consistency. It smells and tastes exactly as I remember. A great herbal, piney scent leads way to a crisp and clean taste with just enough malt presence; with a smooth yet bitter finish. I agree with others who added an additional hop variety for complexity, but personally I really enjoy the simplicity of this recipe as you can really appreciate what each ingredient (especially the Chinook hop, obviously) brings to the table. This beer pairs well with a lot of different food options...my faviorite being any spicy mexican dish.December 21, 2010Excellent IPAThis beer was great. I am a hop head but was slightly hesitant on a single hop IPA. This beer went above and beyond what I had expected. The aroma was great, nice and hoppy. The beer was bitter but was very well balanced. It poured a nice golden rod color with bright white head. The head was extremely dense and lasted the entire beer with strong lacing down the entire glass. I would brew this anytime of the year and will likely become part of the standard brewing rotation.March 9, 2012Delicious beer with a nice hop characterThis beer is delicious. It has just now been in the bottle for 2 weeks and already over half of the fruits of my labor are gone. The hop character is great and the beer is a lovely orange color. Nice head and great lacing. I highly recommend this beer if you like hop bitter and aroma (it is a citrus type hop bite that is just wonderful).June 1, 2011Awesome brewFollowed the directions exactly. This one has everything. A fantastic aroma to start with. An initial taste and aftertaste that is just what the brew doctor ordered. A beautiful lace that follows the brew down to the last drop. This will no doubt be my Summer beer for many years to come. I brewed in June and am now down to my last few bottles in November. A big thumbs up on this one!November 17, 2011Three for Three, Thanks NBThis IPA is my third batch and it turned out great! Three weeks in the primary plus another week in the primary for dry hopping. Used a hop sack to help keep the beer clear. Had to try one 9 days after bottling. I was suprised at how much I could pour out of the bottle before hitting the sediment compared to my other beers, and it was clearer in the glass than I thought it would be at nine days. The taste is fantastic. Bold fruity taste, clean, not real bitter. ABV of 5.4%. Now after three weeks conditioning it is great tasting and great color in the glass. Good job Hank. Man, I'm getting thirsty.April 18, 2012Great IPAHave brewed this twice but haven't strayed from the instructions because it's such a solid beer that I haven't felt the urge to tinker with it......yet.November 15, 2013Good ingredient selectionsI am a semi hop head; not rabid yet. This is one of the most requested brews I do and is becoming one of my favorites. I do not do the dry hop, but put all in at 15 minute intervals. It brews to a 5.6 abv for me. 10 days in one step fermenter, 1 week bottle conditioning with corn sugar and 2 weeks refrigeration works for me.January 1, 2014Great amber APA after some happy accidents!My first ever homebrew, got it with the deluxe double glass carboy kit. I made the serendipitous mistake of leaving the malt bag in for about 30-40 minutes instead of the instructed 20. Also, I forgot to add back water to the wort to make 5 gallons. I went the maximum amount of time on all time ranges (including 2 weeks for secondary fermentation) and turned out with an "amber APA". It's excellent! It tastes like nothing I've ever bought at a store or bar and I look forward to trying it again, maybe with some extra water next time so I have more to enjoy.Added Apr 7, 2017April 7, 2017Not very IPA-likeThis beer is not very well balanced. There is an excess of caramel malt flavor without enough crisp bitterness to the hops to balance it out. Thus, it is fairly sweet and full bodied which is not what I look for in an IPA.March 18, 2017True to FormThis beer bites back a bit (but what do you expect from an IPA)...I enjoyed it...admittedly it grew on me...and I went through it pretty quickly. I'll very likely brew it again!July 30, 2011
- Browse 19 questions Browse 19 questions and 44 answerswhat the fg suppost to be?BEST ANSWER: Hello,
Thank you for choosing Northern Brewer! That FG can vary depending on the yeast used, as well as with various fermentation parameters such as temperature, wort O2 levels, pitching rate, etc... That being said, the Chinook IPA should arrive at a final gravity of 1.010-1.015. I hope that this helps!This is going to be my second brew. I still have only a primary and I am okay with that right now. I know in the "Getting Started DVD" it says to add a week to primary fermentation if you don't have a secondary. Should I add yet another week, with the final week being the dry hop stage? So leave it sit in primary for 3 weeks then add dry hops for a week and then bottle at 4 weeks. Any suggestions on dry hopping in the primary? I am really not looking to get a secondary yet so please, just responses concerning someone who just has a primary for now. Thanks!BEST ANSWER: did you take an original gravity reading?( O.G.), your recipe should give you the estimated O.G. reading and F.G. ( final gravity) reading. this can give you a better estimate if your beer is ready to transfer out of the primary stage ( Northerner Brewer has brewer personal on hand for that advice) . since I get excited brewing my beer I forget sometimes to get my readings ( with an alcohol hydrometer and measurement tube). so as a rule of thumb for me, I ferment my beer a maximum 4 weeks in the primary, then I transfer either into the secondary fermenter for conditioning of the beer or transfer into the bottle. depends on the recipe and/or hops, if using the primary as the only fermenting process, then go a full 4 weeks, and add dry hops ( in my honest opinion) I would add the hops on the third week and let it set 2 weeks in the primary stage. if you're unsure, you can add at the final week, but you may have an over powering hop effect. it also depends on the hop being used and the acidy percentage.I just got this as my my recipe to brew....complete newbie to home brewing. Question though - it came with multiple yeast packs but the directions don't say to use or or two. Any thoughts? Don't want to ruin my first attempt right out of the gate.BEST ANSWER: Hi Justin,
If you have extra yeast, I would pitch the both. This beer doesn't have a super high starting gravity, but it is big enough that extra yeast would be helpful. There are a few good pitching rate calculators online that can help homebrewers pitch the correct amount of yeast. This is the one I usually refer to:
The general rule of thumb is that if your wort has more sugar, you'll need more yeast to ferment it. Hope that helps!
CharlesI did not crush the dry hops before adding. After 2 weeks in secondary I still see residue floating around with some still on top. Is that normal?BEST ANSWER: Well, I don't think anyone crushes the pellet hops before adding to the secondary. The real issue is do you just dump them in (which you did, apparently) or but them in a muslm (or some other kind) of bag. Then do you weight them to make them sink to the bottom. I usually put them in a sanitized musim bag (soaked with sanitizer, of course) and let them float. I tried marbles and did not put enough in to sink. I do't recall ever seeing residue on top -- at least that I worried about. If it tastes okay, go with it. You can always avoid it by careful siphoning.For the final fg I got 1.021 do I need to let it sit longer in secondary? Did I not leave it in the primary long enough? Cause of temp, yeast ect?BEST ANSWER: If you've done a few gravity checks (1-2 days a part), and it's stuck at 1.021, then it's most likely done fermenting.
Moving to secondary is not required, and is actually not an ideal thing to do (ignore the spec sheet on this, trust me, it opens you up to a world of headaches). Do you know what your Original Gravity was? How long as it been sitting in fermentation?Can I leave my dry hops in for 2 weeks?BEST ANSWER: Yes, you can leave your dry hops in for 2 weeks, but it's better to pull them out in less than one week than over one week. Some say 3 to 5 days is best. It's best to leave your brew in the primary for longer than a week or two until you know you'll have the time to do the proper one week or less dry hop time and keg.What is typical alcohol content of Chinook IPAa/BEST ANSWER: Alcohol content is affected by many things but in my experience how much trub you leave in your boil kettle and how much make up water you use in your fermenter has the biggest effect. I will note that I have never had issues with incomplete fermentation which would be the other major variable. I have use dry yeast sprinkled on top of the wort in the fermenter.
In the last several batches I have not settled out the the boil pot but just moved it all (including hop debris) into the fermenter when when cool. This sounds messy but I have found that it does not add significantly to the amount of trub in the bottom of the fermenter at the end of fermentation and it allows me to get the maximum of the wort into the finished beer, minimizing wort dilution by make up water. I usually ferment on the lower end of the yeast's ideal range which may slow things down a bit but this does have an effect on the clarity of your finished product. Be patient, with this process I have been getting around 4.5-4.8% ABV. As a side benefit to using all your boiled material without settling I find that in lower gravity beers I get healthier fermentation without the need for any additional nutrients - one less thing to add to your boil. This is a great IPA with a hop forward flavor and great balance. I am not normally a big IPA lover but this one is worthy of the IPA title without being over the top hoppy and out of balance.I brewed for the first last week, Chinook IPA with specialty grains, and every thing went well, and fermentation was very active in less than 24 hours. The ambient temp is too high--due to the warm fall we are experiencing in Florida the wort temp is around 78 degrees. Four days in and the fermenation has slowed, bubbly about once every 5 minutes. There's really nothing I can do to cool this down. What kind of effect is this going to have on the beer? And should I expect to move to the secondary fermenter early, like 5-7 days after brew?BEST ANSWER: Bob
The higher temps will allow the yeast to produce more fruity flavors so you will probably end up with a bit more yeast character in the finished beer. Fermentation can happen pretty fast at higher temps but it is still important to leave the beer in contact with the yeast as they are still working. I recommend at least 10-14 days in primary for any beer regardless of how fast the actual fermentation takes.
Northern Brewer LLCmy beer is in secondary fermentation and is very dark. Will it lighten up or did I do something wrong?BEST ANSWER: Dark as in a porter or stout, or just darker than a blonde. Many times it will appear darker in a 5 gallon batch, than it would in a pint glass. Most likely you are fine.I transferred the beer to the secondary fermenter but I did not add the additional 1 oz of Chinook hops since I thought I had to add it 1-2 weeks prior to bottling it, while the beer should remain in the secondary fermenter 2-4 weeks. Should I add the hops now or did I get this wrong?
Thank you in advance for your response. Sal!BEST ANSWER: About half way through secondary just add the hops and you will be all good.My grain bag says uncrushed but the instructions say that if I ordered via mail I have crushed grains? I don't have a grain mill and not sure what my best option is moving forward.BEST ANSWER: Carl,
If you are certain you ordered "crushed grain", get hold of NB. I am sure they will make it right. I have crushed some grains by placing them in a sturd bag and going at it with a rolling pin. I also have runl some through a blender. Kind of messy but it works. I hope this helps and good brewing.
JimI made 5 gallons of the Chinook. I want to use my cannonball keg and bottle the rest. What would be the best way to do this?BEST ANSWER: sure...just keg in your cannon ball. Be sure to use the NB priming calculator for the remaining beer to bottle, and you'll be great. Or you could fizz drop, but why? Just add the right amount of prime sugar for the volume remaining.The grans did not ship with the kit which was part of the Brewery in a Box gift I received from by Wife for out anniversary. I brewed it anyway and all appear to be going well. Will I pay a bad price for my choice?BEST ANSWER: I can't imagine the end product will be anything like the outcome expected. Lots of the sugars coome from the grain and brewing without ilt may be kind of bland. The fact is I don't have a clue. Might be a great new addition to session beers.what specialty grains come with this kit?BEST ANSWER: Abe,
Thank you for your question! The specialty grains in this kit are 0.75lbs of Belgian Cara 8 and 0.25lbs of Briess Caramel 120L. If you are curious about any of our other kits' specialty grains under the additional information tab we include the instruction sheet which has the specialty grains listed.
Cheers!Just brewed this today and my OG reading came out 1.042. Based on the estimated FG this will end up at 4.2%. Is that correct or did something happen?BEST ANSWER: OG should be around 1.053. Using true 5 gallons. Using just a half of a gallon more would change the OG. Just make sure the wort and additional water added equals 5 gallons and it is mixed up good. Sometimes letting it sit causes the heavier sugar to drop to the bottom.I have 2oz citra and 1oz motueka ..can I add them to this beer?BEST ANSWER: Yes of course. But then it wouldn’t really be a chinook ipa. But hey let’s experiment! Relax dont worry have a homebrew. Disclaimer: I’m not a fan of motueka but the liime citra combo may be interesting with the chinook.Just brewed my first batch and it came out Awesome! We added a some additional Falconers Flight dry hops in the final few days.
Question: How can this recipe be enhanced to transform into a Double IPA? Simple addition of more ingredients and sugars or better left to seasoned Brewmasters and follow a specific DIPA Recipe?BEST ANSWER: You can certainly transform this into a Dbl IPA in a variety of ways, dpending on your preference. You could purchase a 3lb bag of DME or jug of LME, depending on the color you are shooting for (DME will create a lighter color) and a 1lb bag of dextrose (corn sugar, priming sugar). I would add those at about 15 minutes left in your boil. Then I would suggest doubling your hops at the end of the boil and during dry hopping. Start there and see what you come out with, then tweak and try again! Its the art of homebrewing! Enjoy!For this kit, what are the IBU's and SRM's?BEST ANSWER: Estimated bitterness for this kit is about 60 IBUsDoes this kit come with a hopped LME or do I provide all the hops?BEST ANSWER: This kit includes unhopped extract as well as the hops need to make the beer.