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- Product Details
In true west coast style, this famously fragrant IIPA beer kit features an uncomplicated yet sturdy malt backbone to which outlandish amounts of hops are added. It has a fine balance of malt, hoppy bitterness, and warming alcohol, with a fresh hop aroma of floral citrus, and pine. Bittered with pure essence of hop, flavored with massive kettle additions, and featuring not one, but two dry hoppings, it is the first and last word when it comes to the ultimate hoppy homebrew. There is no need to stash this Imperial IPA away as it is intended to be enjoyed fresh, before the delicate hop aromas fade. Get ready to experience the ultimate lupulin threshold shift!
- Additional Information
Beer Kit Yield 5 Gallons Recipe and Instructions Click Here for The Plinian Legacy Double IPA Kit Brewing Instructions Regional Style USA Original Gravity 1070 Total Time to Make 6 weeks
- 4.8 / 5.0145 ReviewsGreat productIt tastes almost exactly like Pliny the Elder at Russian River brewery.September 16, 2017Purchased
4 months agoPowerful IPAThis is a strong brew with incredible amounts of hops, but it works! Amazing beer, one of my regulars!!July 21, 2017Purchased
1 year agoStellarThis was fantastic! This was the 5th kit I've ever done, and it was more involved, but the instructions were on point. I can't believe how well this turned out. Easily the best IPA in my fridge right now, and I've got some great names in there already. Just STELLAR! Will absolutely be doing this one again.FANTASTICJuly 6, 2017not a perfect clone but a great beerBrewed this beer in mid May, enjoyed fresh Pliny in late May, and bottled this beer in early June.
This beer looks nothing like Pliny and tastes only slightly like it. Regardless, this clone is amazing. I only filled my carboy to 5 gallons, instead of 6, so I ended up with more of a DIPA but this beer is fantastic.
Great head, creamy feel and flavor is amazing. Even with double dry hopping the aroma is only just ok. Really good beer.Added Jun 26, 2017June 26, 2017Purchased
6 months agoSecond time brewing this kitI like to give away some of my beer to friends and family when I brew it, and this kit has definitely been the most popular. By far. When I told them I was brewing this kit again some starting putting in requests for more than one.
The recipe itself has a few more steps than a normal kit, and takes 90 minutes of boiling as opposed to 60, but if you can follow directions (and have a secondary fermenter), you can brew this beer.May 10, 2017Purchased
6 months agoSerious IPA!Great brew with a slight fruity forward followed by a full hoppy bitterness & warming finish. It is refreshing & drinkable, but a slow-sipper for me due to the predominant bitterness. It is satisfying - you know you're drinking a genuine, top quality IPA with a punch.First draw is perfect.April 7, 2017Purchased
1 year agoThis is a great clone kit. It's my second time making it and it has come out great both times. I did end up with a little less than 5 gallons at the end due to all the loss from hops.March 22, 2017Purchased
1 year agoGreat IPA. As a beginner this was my 3rd beer. It came out incredible. When I started brewing I planned on not repeating a recipe, but I have to with this one.March 18, 2017I've done this kit twiceI've brewed this one twice, and they were the two best batches I've brewed so far (out of an admittedly paltry ten batches). I give a slight edge to my more recent brew because I got more bottles thanks to doing the dry-hop in the Depth-Charge thingy from BigMouth. I got lazy and didn't grab gravity readings, but it tastes right and packs a punch. I also didn't follow the exact amounts on the various hop additions (see above vis a vis laziness), but I really couldn't be happier with this kit. After a couple of bad brews this one restored my zeal.March 11, 2017Purchased
10 months agoThe best batch I've made so farThis kit was without a doubt the best batch I've made so far. Using a starter of Wyeast 1056 this was the first time I've had to use a blowoff tube. My advice is to a blowoff from the start rather than come home one evening to an overflowing carboy.
It is worth noting that this kit produced an insane amount of trub and if you dry hop in the primary like I did then you will lose a good amount when bottling; unless you like a lot of sediment in your beer. With that said, I feel that the benefits of skipping a transfer to a secondary fermentation vessel(less oxidation and lower chance of infection) is well worth the loss of final product.
Two week fermenting and then two weeks to bottle condition is what I did and I couldn't be happier with the results.After two weeks in primary and two weeks bottle conditioning.February 25, 2017Purchased
10 months ago
- Browse 34 questions Browse 34 questions and 73 answersWhat is the approximate IBU for this beer?BEST ANSWER: Off the charts. Literally.Is there a preferred yeast to get the best results from this kit?BEST ANSWER: Two packs US-05 dry yeast sprinkled over cooled wort. The next day you will have good fermentation and by the end of day two you need a blow off tube to allow the foam to pass.Is is to make a starter if I am using the US-05 dry yeast? Others suggest an extra yeast pack but is this necessary? Presently I have neither an extra pack of yeast nor any extra DME to prepare a starter.BEST ANSWER: While using one pack of yeast may work OK, there is the risk of under-attenuation or other fermentation issues due to not enough yeast. If you are using dry yeast, we definitely recommend purchasing an additional dry yeast pack.I am ordering this as a gift. How long will it be good for? Do I have to worry about it expiring?The Plinian Legacy Double IPA Extract KitBEST ANSWER: This kit will be shipped with crushed grain; the grain is good for 3-5 months with no problem. After that long, the crushed grain may begin to get a little stale. It can still be used, but it's better if brewed up while fresh. All the other components would be good for much longer than that.The extract kit comes with a 1 lb bag of corn sugar and the recipe calls for .75 lbs. Should I measure that amount or just use it all? Not that I am lazy, but I am if it won't effect the outcome.BEST ANSWER: Thank you for contacting Northern Brewer. I understand you are reading the instructions for the Plinian Legacy Kit. There is 0.75 lbs that is added to the end of the boil and then there would be a 5 ounce package for priming sugar, if you are bottling. If you mean the sugar at the end of the boil, it would not make much of a difference as sugar will be eaten by the yeast and turned into alcohol. However, sugar added to beer can also dry out the taste of the beer. Will it make that much difference? It might add a couple points of a percentage to your beer, but it also might change the flavor slightly. If you are adding the corn sugar for the bottle conditioning process, I would suggest using our Priming Sugar Calculator. You can find it here: http://www.northernbrewer.com/priming-sugar-calculator then just choose the style of beer you are brewing, the temperature you are conditioning the beer at, and amount of beer you've brewed. It will not only pop out the correct amount of sugar you will need to carbonate that beer, but give you alternative sugars you can also use to condition the beer with. Cheers!Can you get away with not going to secondary on this? My secondary is currently aging a sour and I was thinking of doing a 3-4 week primary and then starting the 2 week dry hopping schedule instead.BEST ANSWER: Never tried that, but I have found that there is a ton of sludge in the wort and transferring to the secondary helps reduce that. I have designed a "sock Filter" that I put over the tubing when transferring and usually collect a cup of sludge in the process. Actually there are two transfers, one from primary to secondary and then back to the bottling bucket. Great taste.when adding the dry hops do you remove the first hops that have been in there for 10 to 14 days then add the second dry hops or just leave them in there too for the remainder of the time untill you bottleBEST ANSWER: Trevor,
You do not remove them. 10-14 days before bottling add dry hops #1. Then 4-5 days later add your next dry hops. Not 10-14 days then add dry hop #2. I hope that helps.
Cheers!How long should active fermentation take with this kit? This is my first high gravity beer and fermentation has been very active for 6 days now with no signs of slowing down. I used the Omega yeast with a 1.5 L starter.BEST ANSWER: Just let it keep going and going until it settles down. Then you can transfer to the secondary-vessel. Active yeast is a good thing... You can also allow for extra secondary.Does this fit in a standard 6.5 gallon fermenter bucket without blowout?BEST ANSWER: No, if you look at the recipe it calls for a 6 gallon fill due to loss caused by all the hops left in the fermenter. If you are pitching correctly then only 1/2 gallon of head space is not going to be enough- just use the tube, it's easy and simple.After reading the Q&A below, just wanted to confirm secondary and hop schedule?
- Secondary ferment for 2-4 weeks
- After the time above elapses, then add 1st stage hops.
- THEN 4-5 days later, add 2nd stage hops.
- Beer should be ready to bottle 10-14 days after the 1st stage hop.
-BEST ANSWER: I planned on just 2 weeks secondary fermentation. I don't use hydrometer. So I put 1rst stage hops in at beginning of 2nd ferment, then 2nd batch hops in 5 days before bottling, or on day 9 of secondary ferment. Worked ok, though I in-bottle fermentation for carbonation was done at too high a temp and bottles foamed out half the bottle when opening. Kind of a bummer. But that was due to weather....Does this kit make 5 or 6 gallons. The Details say 5 but the instructions say "add more water as needed to bring it to 6 gallons?"BEST ANSWER: The kit is designed around making 6 gallons of beer at the start. Since there are significant losses to the copious dry hops, you end up with more like 5 gallons at the end. I made the kit to 5.5 gallons so it fit better in my fermentors, which got a small boost in gravity/ABV, and then was careful siphoning and got a net of just about 5 gallons still.does this require a yeast starter?BEST ANSWER: I made this Plinian IPA a few months ago. No yeast starter and it turned out to be delicious. It was made and fermented in temperatures between 70 and 75 degrees. Good luck.My final Gravity is coming out at 1.030 is that right or does it need to go lowerBEST ANSWER: My FG came in at 1.008 after 1 week in the primary. I used two packs of US-05. Aggressive fermentation first couple days then settled down. Used a blow off tube and everything went smooth.Wondering how much water would be needed to do a full boil? Using a 15 Gallon Kettle.BEST ANSWER: I didn't use enough water. I used 4.5 gallons to mash and 4 gallons for a batch sparge. I wound up with a little under 7 gallons pre-boil. 5.5 gallons in primary and I just transferred about 4.5 gallons to secondary to dry hop. It tastes awesome, but next time I'll probably add a gallon to the mash and 1/2 to the spargeCan you make this with the essential brewing starter kit?BEST ANSWER: Yes, but i would suggest buying an extra package of yeast if you dont have a yeast starter kit.Hops - bag or no bag for the boil / flame out hops?BEST ANSWER: We do not include a bag for the hops but one can be used if you want less trub at the end of the boil.I'm on day 6 in primary for the Plinian. This is my 8th overall extract beer I've made - so still a novice. All seems to be going well. I didn't look at the Question section before ordering. I see it mentioned that 2 Yeast packs would have been better - I only got one and added - the White Labs WLP001. If more than one yeast packet is reccommended, does it make sense to add that before you order or at least in the instructions? Again, still a newbie and following instructions to the letter for now, so would be helpful.BEST ANSWER: 1 packet makes the beer just fine so I would not be overly concerned and the beer should still turn out good. We recommend a yeast starter both on the product page and in the instructions. An alternative to a yeast starter is just adding two packets of yeast. I would proceed as normal, your brew should be fine. Cheers!Is it possible to make this into 2.5 gallon batch recipe? Would it be as simple as halving all the ingredients? Can this hold true to all 5 gallon kit recipes?BEST ANSWER: Hello.
Thank you for choosing Northern Brewer! You can most definitely split any of the kits in two. There might be a little bit of inconsistency between batches, but they should still taste darn good!I am really thinking about making this my next brew. I recently was in Ashville NC and tried "Freak of Nature" from Wicked Weed Brewing and was blown away with the piney hop flavor! Have you tasted "Freak" and does the Plinian have more of a piney hop flavor. I'mean really beginning to warm up to hoppy beers but not the floral flavors. Thanks.BEST ANSWER: Yes, this recipie has more of a piney/citrusy flavor. It does not use any floral hops.I'm 9 days in the bottle and yesterday (day 8) I decided to open a bottle and see how things were progressing (this is my second home brew ever). I ended up opening two and both were a foam explosion. In fact I was short of glass bottles and used a single wall metal growler and discovered the bottom was pushed out due to the pressure build up. My question is whether this will subside with more time in the bottle or did I really screw something up and can look forward to a similar experience with all of my bottles?BEST ANSWER: Hi Ryan,
Thanks for contacting us! Sorry to hear about the overcarbonation.
Some of the bottles may not have this issue; it depends on what the cause is. If it is an infection, then it would depend on whether the infection happened before or after the beer hit the bottle. I've had this, and usually it tends to be a bottle by bottle issue. If infection is to blame, the beer can taste a bit off.
Or, the sugar may not have blended in evenly. If this is the case, some bottles might actually be under-carbed.
Finally, the beer may not have been done fermenting when you bottled. The best way to avoid this is to wait until the gravity holds steady for 3 days or more before bottling.
I hope this helps! Let me know if you have any other questions,
CharlesIs this a mini mash or extract kit?BEST ANSWER: This kit is extract with specialty grains for steeping. There is no mashing.Just brewed this yesterday. Pitched the single envelope Dry Yeast pack. Reading now some say one is fine, others one is not enough....? Any thoughts, can i even pitch another packet at this time if i picked it up from my local brew shop?BEST ANSWER: Two would not be a bad idea, as the starting gravity of this kit is very high. I'd seriously consider adding a second one, it will help the beer ferment out fully, and turn out as good as possible. If a beer is starting over 1.065, you should consider using two dry yeasts, or doing a yeast starter with a liquid yeast. - Mike W, Northern BrewerThe instructions say to add .25 oz Amarillo hops along with steeping grain. Should I put the hops in the bag with the grains (and get removed with the grains)? Or just dump hops in kettle outside of the bag when steeping grains go in (get left in there the entire boil)?BEST ANSWER: I would put them into a hop bag, or add them direct to the kettle. They are intended to stay in during the boil, so if they were inside the grain bag, they would get pulled out of the kettle and discarded, instead of being boiled for the 90 minute boil. -Mike W, Northern BrewerI've brewed this recipe twice starting with 4 gal Spring water. After boil I have about 3 gals of wort. The trub is thick so I don't get much siphon volume without pulling the trub into the fermenter. Is this causing a grassy/earthy taste in my beer? Should I top off the post boil wort with additional Spring water so I can siphon a higher volume of cleaner wort into the fermenter? Any other suggestions for transferring a higher volume of clean wort into fermenter? There isn't enough post boil wort to whirlpool. Lastly, is Spring water appropriate for extract brewing or should I be using distilled water? Thank you and cheers!BEST ANSWER: I think I'd instead pour the wort through a sterilized strainer or screened-funnel, so you get ALL the liquid and leave the solid material behind. It's fine if some gets in the fermenter, but it is nice to not have all of it in there. I'd then top off in the fermenter to just over 5 gallons, so you get your full expected batch size, after losing the amount known to be lost to the sediment in the primary fermenter. Spring water is generally better than distilled; distilled water has been stripped of all mineral content, and those minerals are needed for the health of the yeast. -Mike W, Northern BrewerI forgot to add the second pack of dry yeast, is it ok/should i add the 2nd pack when moving the batch to the 2nd fermentor or forget about at this point?BEST ANSWER: If fermentation is over and the gravity is not changing, adding a pack of that yeast will not benefit the beer. Check your gravity to see if there is any issue - if you bottle, you may consider adding the yeast at bottling to at least help it carbonate. Cheers!Do the brewing instruction change if using a full volume boil? Just I just start with around 7.5 Gal. water and follow the instructions for the specialty grains etc. the same?BEST ANSWER: Greetings!
Thank you for the question! The only difference is that you start out with all your water and do not need to add water to the fermentor. 6.5 gallons should be sufficient.
Cheers!I just got the "brew share enjoy homebrew startet kit" i would like to do this recipe, I'm getting the 6.5gl siphonlees plastic fermentor , is there anything else that i should get/needed to brew this recipe?BEST ANSWER: That's all you need! It can be helpful to have a hydrometer to monitor fermentation, so if you were hoping to buy more stuff, I'd start there. But with the starter kit, and a second fermentor, you've got all the essentials covered!I brewed this recipe at the end of January and last weekend cracked open the first bottle after following the recipe-recommended fermentation and bottle conditioning times. The flavor seems okay, but the beer is almost completely flat. I tried two bottles and both are the same. Does it need more bottle-conditioning, or is there anything else I can do at this point to increase carbonation? Or is this batch a total loss?BEST ANSWER: A high gravity beer like this can take a little extra time to carbonate fully. Make sure the bottles are in a warm spot, 65-70F, and consider giving each bottle a little shake and invert them a couple times. Make sure the caps are on tightly and even. Wait a couple more weeks, the yeast probably got stressed and are taking longer to carbonate. The key to high gravity carbonation is aerating really well, adding enough healthy yeast(1 pack is underpitching), and keeping a steady fermentation temperature that does not change more than a couple degrees in a 12 hour period. Sharp drops will crash the yeast out of solution. Sadly the answer is a little more patience to let them carbonate. I hope this helps! We're happy to help if needed. Cheers! James J.Is a single pack of W-Yeast 1056 sufficient for the yeast option? No need to add 2 W-Yeast packs?BEST ANSWER: tbrew,
Thanks for your question! With an OG of 1.070 you'll either want to pitch 2 packs of the 1.056 or do a 2L starter with one pack.
Cheers!Since this calls for 6 gallons of liquid, is it recommended to use a fermenter bigger than 6.5 gallons? Can a 6.5 and a blow off tube handle this?BEST ANSWER: Yes that's what I use
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