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- Product Details
This American IPA beer kit has a relatively modest gravity and an immodest hop character derived entirely from a single hop variety. Chinook hops have long been used by US brewers for bittering additions, but their intense aroma and flavor have caught on only recently. This kit is a bit lower in gravity and lighter in body than our other IPA recipe kits, which enhances the perceived bitterness and reduces the aging requirements. It shows up in the glass with a reddish-gold color and a thick, resinous Chinook aroma that lingers after the glass is emptied.
- Additional Information
Beer Kit Yield 5 Gallons Recipe and Instructions Click Here for Chinook IPA Extract Kit Brewing Instructions Regional Style USA Original Gravity 1053 Total Time to Make 6 weeks
- 4.7 / 5.0317 ReviewsDamn good!Well this came in my starter kit so this was my first brew. I typically drink ipa's so this sounded like a win. The process went pretty flawlessly the directions were good and easy to follow. I was nervous I messed something up since I saw no bubbles in the airlock till day 4 but it bubbled well for 3 days after. I left mine in primary for 16 days then dry hoped for 5 then bottled. It was quite good after only a day in the bottle even though very young. It has gotten much better since then. Everyone I have had try this really likes it so this was a great first experience.February 13, 2018Very bland. Not an IPA.Just finally bottles this and as of bottling this wasn't very good. Not any hop profile whatsoever. Tastes extremely bland with not a single bit of bitterness or bite. Kinda tastes like a yeungling. Severely disappointed. I doubt carbonation is gonna suddenly make this an IPA, but will see. I'll update this review if that miracle happens.February 6, 2018Stunned by Chinook!I was blown away by the results. It was my first brew and I just followed the directions and did 2 weeks for primary and 2 weeks for secondary (with a dry hop). I bought a 3 gallon keg and kegged half and bottled half. The keg brew is clear and quite hoppy with a nice bitter follow through. Perfectly carbonated--I followed the NB video directions. Have another week before the bottles are ready, but I anticipate more perfection! I will definitely do the Chinook again soon.February 1, 2018Chinook IPAFirst homebrew was the Chinook IPA which was in the kit I received for Christmas 2017. Primary fermentation for two weeks followed by ten days in secondary (dry hopped for seven days prior to bottling). Just cracked one open and was very impressed. Perfectly carbonated after eight days and the flavor was spot on, very reminiscent of Bell's Two Hearted which is not a bad thing at all. Final ABV turned out at 5.7%. Most impressed with the quality of this beer especially for first time brewing.January 31, 2018Excellent Brew!!!This was my first brew. I just cracked open a bottle last night, very good brew. 10 days in primary, dry hopped 1 week in secondary and bottle conditioned for 2 weeks. The ABV came in around 5.8%. Will definitely brew this one again. I now have the chocolate milk stout and coconut porter in primaries fermenting away, you can’t go wrong with northern brewer extract kits!January 30, 2018Chinook IPAThis was my first time brewing beer. The chinook IPA was easy to brew. I couldn’t wait to try it. It’s been around 6 weeks pulled my first bottle out of the frig. OMG it tastes fantastic. To me smooth and hoppy. I will probably brew this beer so I have it all the time.
Now waiting for my amber ale to finish about Another 4 weeks to drink time. Can’t wait.Added Jan 20, 2018January 20, 2018It's beerSmells like beer, tastes like beer. Sure isn't a 5 star beer though. Expected a lot more and starting to question my investment in equipment after making this one. Not sure how to pick my next kit when all the reviews are the same.December 24, 2017Favorite IPA thus farI dry hopped with willamette and cascade hops that really improved the taste profile. I will make this one again for sure.December 16, 2017Purchased
4 months agoChinookVery tasty and pleasing to the palate. Easy process. This is my third batch which I bottled and I have a fourth in the secondary to be kegged in three weeks. I will continue Chinook as one of my regulars.November 12, 2017Purchased
4 months agothis beer came with my deluxe brew set i. just had some and it taste great i am having people over to brew a new batch and drink a fewNovember 2, 2017Purchased
4 months ago
- Browse 24 questions Browse 24 questions and 53 answersThis is going to be my second brew. I still have only a primary and I am okay with that right now. I know in the "Getting Started DVD" it says to add a week to primary fermentation if you don't have a secondary. Should I add yet another week, with the final week being the dry hop stage? So leave it sit in primary for 3 weeks then add dry hops for a week and then bottle at 4 weeks. Any suggestions on dry hopping in the primary? I am really not looking to get a secondary yet so please, just responses concerning someone who just has a primary for now. Thanks!BEST ANSWER: Hi JS,
Longer time in the primary will certainly help with clarity and flavor. The concern here would be to get the beer out of the primary (and off the yeast cake) before the dead yeast cells autolysize (basically, decompose and pop). This can introduce some negative flavors. As long as you bottle before 3.5 or 4 weeks, you should be good. Autolysis isn't really a concern until week 4 or 5, so if you get it out by 3.5 or 4, you shouldn't have to worry about it at all.
You can add hops any time, but I would recommend adding them after fermentation slows down (or stops). Otherwise, volatile aroma compounds can get lost through the air lock with all that co2 escaping.
I hope that helps! Let me know if you have any follow-up questions.
Charleswhat the fg suppost to be?BEST ANSWER: Hello,
Thank you for choosing Northern Brewer! That FG can vary depending on the yeast used, as well as with various fermentation parameters such as temperature, wort O2 levels, pitching rate, etc... That being said, the Chinook IPA should arrive at a final gravity of 1.010-1.015. I hope that this helps!Id like to add something to the secondary. Possibly grapefruit. Any suggestions? Is that even necessary?BEST ANSWER: You can add grapefruit to the secondary but in my opinion, this kit does not require it.What is typical alcohol content of Chinook IPAa/BEST ANSWER: Alcohol content is affected by many things but in my experience how much trub you leave in your boil kettle and how much make up water you use in your fermenter has the biggest effect. I will note that I have never had issues with incomplete fermentation which would be the other major variable. I have use dry yeast sprinkled on top of the wort in the fermenter.
In the last several batches I have not settled out the the boil pot but just moved it all (including hop debris) into the fermenter when when cool. This sounds messy but I have found that it does not add significantly to the amount of trub in the bottom of the fermenter at the end of fermentation and it allows me to get the maximum of the wort into the finished beer, minimizing wort dilution by make up water. I usually ferment on the lower end of the yeast's ideal range which may slow things down a bit but this does have an effect on the clarity of your finished product. Be patient, with this process I have been getting around 4.5-4.8% ABV. As a side benefit to using all your boiled material without settling I find that in lower gravity beers I get healthier fermentation without the need for any additional nutrients - one less thing to add to your boil. This is a great IPA with a hop forward flavor and great balance. I am not normally a big IPA lover but this one is worthy of the IPA title without being over the top hoppy and out of balance.I am new at this, I assume the Base Kit does not include Yeast & Priming? Which Yeast Option & Priming is most suitable ? ThanksBEST ANSWER: First off. The Chinook IPA is a great Beer, my signature beer. I use priming sugar to prime at bottling in the amount given in the recipe. I have used the "Fizz Drops" but prefer plain old corn sugar. (from NB) As for the yeast, I always use liquid yeast. I like using liquid because I am able to see it is working before pitching. I prefer Wyeast 1056. (supplied with the kit.) I have always had excellent results with it. Hope this helps.
Remember "Cleanliness is next to Godliness".I just got this as my my recipe to brew....complete newbie to home brewing. Question though - it came with multiple yeast packs but the directions don't say to use or or two. Any thoughts? Don't want to ruin my first attempt right out of the gate.BEST ANSWER: Hi Justin,
If you have extra yeast, I would pitch the both. This beer doesn't have a super high starting gravity, but it is big enough that extra yeast would be helpful. There are a few good pitching rate calculators online that can help homebrewers pitch the correct amount of yeast. This is the one I usually refer to:
The general rule of thumb is that if your wort has more sugar, you'll need more yeast to ferment it. Hope that helps!
CharlesI did not crush the dry hops before adding. After 2 weeks in secondary I still see residue floating around with some still on top. Is that normal?BEST ANSWER: Well, I don't think anyone crushes the pellet hops before adding to the secondary. The real issue is do you just dump them in (which you did, apparently) or but them in a muslm (or some other kind) of bag. Then do you weight them to make them sink to the bottom. I usually put them in a sanitized musim bag (soaked with sanitizer, of course) and let them float. I tried marbles and did not put enough in to sink. I do't recall ever seeing residue on top -- at least that I worried about. If it tastes okay, go with it. You can always avoid it by careful siphoning.For the final fg I got 1.021 do I need to let it sit longer in secondary? Did I not leave it in the primary long enough? Cause of temp, yeast ect?BEST ANSWER: I was in the 1.012/1.014 range, I don't think you are finished yet, give it a stir with a sanitized rod or spoon and warm it up to 70 degrees. Give it a few more days and check againCan I leave my dry hops in for 2 weeks?BEST ANSWER: Yes, you can leave your dry hops in for 2 weeks, but it's better to pull them out in less than one week than over one week. Some say 3 to 5 days is best. It's best to leave your brew in the primary for longer than a week or two until you know you'll have the time to do the proper one week or less dry hop time and keg.I brewed for the first last week, Chinook IPA with specialty grains, and every thing went well, and fermentation was very active in less than 24 hours. The ambient temp is too high--due to the warm fall we are experiencing in Florida the wort temp is around 78 degrees. Four days in and the fermenation has slowed, bubbly about once every 5 minutes. There's really nothing I can do to cool this down. What kind of effect is this going to have on the beer? And should I expect to move to the secondary fermenter early, like 5-7 days after brew?BEST ANSWER: Bob
The higher temps will allow the yeast to produce more fruity flavors so you will probably end up with a bit more yeast character in the finished beer. Fermentation can happen pretty fast at higher temps but it is still important to leave the beer in contact with the yeast as they are still working. I recommend at least 10-14 days in primary for any beer regardless of how fast the actual fermentation takes.
Northern Brewer LLCI am brewing my first batch with a deluxe kit gotten for Christmas, the primary fermentation stopped the first week. All the foam and the bubbling stopped, so I transferred the wort to the 2nd carboy and started the 2nd fermentation. Do you think that my results would be affected due this short 1st fermentation? the next time should I keep the wort on the first fermentation even though this has stopped? for how long should I keep the wort in the 2nd fermentation?
Thanks,BEST ANSWER: I have brewed this recipe many times. A week in the primary sounds about right. Make sure that the temperature is in the recommended range. Keep the secondary for another week and then dry hop. If you follow the directions that come with the kit, you should have some really great beer in a few weeks! Enjoy.my beer is in secondary fermentation and is very dark. Will it lighten up or did I do something wrong?BEST ANSWER: Dark as in a porter or stout, or just darker than a blonde. Many times it will appear darker in a 5 gallon batch, than it would in a pint glass. Most likely you are fine.I transferred the beer to the secondary fermenter but I did not add the additional 1 oz of Chinook hops since I thought I had to add it 1-2 weeks prior to bottling it, while the beer should remain in the secondary fermenter 2-4 weeks. Should I add the hops now or did I get this wrong?
Thank you in advance for your response. Sal!BEST ANSWER: About half way through secondary just add the hops and you will be all good.My grain bag says uncrushed but the instructions say that if I ordered via mail I have crushed grains? I don't have a grain mill and not sure what my best option is moving forward.BEST ANSWER: Carl,
If you are certain you ordered "crushed grain", get hold of NB. I am sure they will make it right. I have crushed some grains by placing them in a sturd bag and going at it with a rolling pin. I also have runl some through a blender. Kind of messy but it works. I hope this helps and good brewing.
JimI made 5 gallons of the Chinook. I want to use my cannonball keg and bottle the rest. What would be the best way to do this?BEST ANSWER: sure...just keg in your cannon ball. Be sure to use the NB priming calculator for the remaining beer to bottle, and you'll be great. Or you could fizz drop, but why? Just add the right amount of prime sugar for the volume remaining.The grans did not ship with the kit which was part of the Brewery in a Box gift I received from by Wife for out anniversary. I brewed it anyway and all appear to be going well. Will I pay a bad price for my choice?BEST ANSWER: I can't imagine the end product will be anything like the outcome expected. Lots of the sugars coome from the grain and brewing without ilt may be kind of bland. The fact is I don't have a clue. Might be a great new addition to session beers.what specialty grains come with this kit?BEST ANSWER: Abe,
Thank you for your question! The specialty grains in this kit are 0.75lbs of Belgian Cara 8 and 0.25lbs of Briess Caramel 120L. If you are curious about any of our other kits' specialty grains under the additional information tab we include the instruction sheet which has the specialty grains listed.
Cheers!Im going to be doing a full boil on this, From what i understand from reading the forums was to follow the all grain hop amount which looks like i just adjust the 1st addition from 1oz to .75oz? Or do iBEST ANSWER: I always do a full boil. I have done this recupr many times. I have followed the recipe as written. 1 , .5, .5; and i oz dry hopped.Just brewed this today and my OG reading came out 1.042. Based on the estimated FG this will end up at 4.2%. Is that correct or did something happen?BEST ANSWER: OG should be around 1.053. Using true 5 gallons. Using just a half of a gallon more would change the OG. Just make sure the wort and additional water added equals 5 gallons and it is mixed up good. Sometimes letting it sit causes the heavier sugar to drop to the bottom.I have 2oz citra and 1oz motueka ..can I add them to this beer?BEST ANSWER: Yes of course. But then it wouldn’t really be a chinook ipa. But hey let’s experiment! Relax dont worry have a homebrew. Disclaimer: I’m not a fan of motueka but the liime citra combo may be interesting with the chinook.Just brewed my first batch and it came out Awesome! We added a some additional Falconers Flight dry hops in the final few days.
Question: How can this recipe be enhanced to transform into a Double IPA? Simple addition of more ingredients and sugars or better left to seasoned Brewmasters and follow a specific DIPA Recipe?BEST ANSWER: You can certainly transform this into a Dbl IPA in a variety of ways, dpending on your preference. You could purchase a 3lb bag of DME or jug of LME, depending on the color you are shooting for (DME will create a lighter color) and a 1lb bag of dextrose (corn sugar, priming sugar). I would add those at about 15 minutes left in your boil. Then I would suggest doubling your hops at the end of the boil and during dry hopping. Start there and see what you come out with, then tweak and try again! Its the art of homebrewing! Enjoy!For this kit, what are the IBU's and SRM's?BEST ANSWER: Estimated bitterness for this kit is about 60 IBUsDoes this kit come with a hopped LME or do I provide all the hops?BEST ANSWER: This kit includes unhopped extract as well as the hops need to make the beer.What’s the IBU?