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- Product Details
Dead Ringer® is a larger-than-life American IPA beer kit with a hop aroma so thick you can almost see it. American base malt and crystal malt create the big body and supporting grainy sweetness, while charge after charge of 100% Centennial hops deliver pronounced bitterness with a dominant citrus aroma and flavor. In the glass you get a pale amber color, hop intensity and malt density - substance with the soul of a session beer. This IPA recipe kit has been a customer favorite for a decade
Dead Ringer® is an homage to a benchmark of the American IPA style that’s brewed in Michigan.
Same recipe, new format - We now offer it to you in a convenient stove top BIAB format. The recipe is exactly the same and is still the same kit that’s close to your hearts - just a little smaller.
- Additional Information
Beer Kit Yield 3 Gallons Recipe and Instructions Click Here for Dead Ringer® IPA BIAB Recipe Kit Brewing Instructions Regional Style USA Original Gravity 1064 Total Time to Make 6 weeks
4.9 / 5.012 ReviewsKeeps Getting Better!So I made this the first time, first all grain, first BIAB ever back in May and I could not believe how amazing it turned out. This time I refined a few things as I ended up with too much wort the first time around.
This time I ended up a little under 3 gallons, but topped off and left a little room for sediment. Dropped a small portion of whirfloc in during the boil which really helped to clear it up.
Fermentation I did primary about 3 1/2 weeks, then a week in the secondary dry hopped for 4 days. I start to feel anything longer than 4-5 days is really just going to add that grassy taste when the hops have already let our their oils and aromas.
Force carbed and was ready in a few days. This was for my fiance's bday party. Keg ended up getting completely finished in less than a week, the majority of it drank during the party. Everyone said it tasted like a 'real beer', and compared it to Stone IPA. I was lucky enough to have a Two Hearted Ale to try with it, very similar beer! Great Job!Whirfloc, as well as cold crashing and a hop strainer bag for the dry hopping make it clear up!November 30, 2016Best I've brewed YetThis was my first BIAB attempt after going from 4 Mr. Beer kits, then 4-5 gallon extract kits and this was the best beer I've ever made. Friends have said most homebrews have some sort of twang to them, but this beer tasted like it was straight from a brewery. I ended with an extra gallon of wort, so abv was lower and lighter body, still tasted amazing and I'll be making again with some adjustments.May 3, 2016Nice IPABrewed this one a couple months ago and now drinking. Very nice IPA. Will most likely become a regular in my brewery, only in the larger 5 gallon batches.May 31, 2016January 11, 2016Best one yetOk, this is a great beer. Best one I've brewed yet.March 26, 2016Best IPA from a non IPA guyI very selectively drink IPA's. My go to styles are Belgians, Scotch ales and stouts. When I do drink IPA's I go for DF 90 minute or occasionally dirt wolf. This IPA is very drinkable and smooth. I would say its like 90 minute with a slight edge. I plan on re-ordering the full 5 gallon kit.December 18, 2016Purchased
8 months agoFaster than expectedEverything was packed securely and it arrived a day earlier than they saidApril 15, 2016First BIAB - ExcellentFirst time using BIAB. Very happy with the results! Followed the recipe except used 1 oz citra + 1 oz simcoe for dry hops rather than the provided centennial. 10 days primary, 10 days secondary. Yielded 3.5 gallons. Delicious!December 30, 2016Surprisingly easy and exceptionally tasty!As a huge fan of IPAs, I was excited to see NB bring one of my all time favorites in extract brewing to the BIAB arena. This was my first BIAB venture so I wasn't sure what to expect, but WOW! this brew is as good if not better than the extract version. I will be ordering another kit soon because the only drawback is that 3 gallons doesn't last too long! Buy..brew..and enjoy!November 10, 2014Best IPA I've brewed!This beer turned out fantastic! Super easy to brew. 2 weeks in primary then racked to secondary and dry-hopped for 1 week. FG @ 1.016 for a 6.2% beer. Will buy the all grain next time just so I can have 5 gals!!March 10, 2015
Browse 7 questions Browse 7 questions and 24 answersFor step 9 in the instructions for the Lauterong phase, is it suggesting that you would have one kettle used for mashing and another to boil? The reason it seems that way is because it says let the liquid drain into a bucket. Why not just let it drain into the kettle that you mashed in that you're also boiling in?BEST ANSWER: You could but the wet grain is quite heavy. I found it easier to drain the last of the wort in a second pot and add back to the main one. If you don't have one its not needed. I also have used a large strainer to hold the grain bag out of the liquid to drain.Do I need the yeast starter for this?BEST ANSWER: When I brewed this I did not use a starter and it turned out great (it was my first brew). A starter wouldn't hurt though if you have the time to make one. Just my two-cents worth.Does the mesh bag come with the kit?BEST ANSWER: No it does not, unfortunately. You must buy seperately (available on this site), but I have found it useful many of times so a worthy buy.My initial mash temp was 154 and my ending was about 145. Am I losing out on extracting all of the goodness from the grain by the temp falling so low? Do you apply heat during this phase to bring the temp back up to the 152 range?BEST ANSWER: I do apply low heat if the temp begins to fall and monitor throughout the sacchrification process. I can't fully answer your question as I've never let my temp fall that low, but I can tell you that what you will want to calculate to figure out if your extracting all your goodness is called "brewhouse efficiency". Homebrewing dot com has a great calculator for brewhouse efficiency that you can find with a quick google search.
I have done a lot of brews using the BIAB method and have more recently dialed in what I consider to be consistent good brewhouse efficiency. When I first started using the calculator I realized that my efficiency was in the 60 percentile range, but I have now been able to get it up to the 80s and even the low 90s on my most recent brew. What has worked for me is milling my grains twice, adding 10 minutes to the sach rest, and making sure to do a good mashout. I also let my bag of grains drain well and add all of that good wort back into the kettle (and I'm not above squeezing the bag if necessary).
To maintain a consistent temp during the sach rest, I wrap my kettle with an old towel using bungee cords to help insulate.
Hope this helps!Maybe I missed it but I did not see a FG target for this recipe. What should I shoot for?BEST ANSWER: I got......
However instead of using the bag I have a kettle with a false bottom and I sparge well.If I wanted to brew a larger batch, could I just buy two of these kits and follow the instructions as is but just doubling the ingredients (i.e. the hop schedule, water volume, etc...)? I have a 15.5 gallon brew pot and the FastFerment conical fermenter (7.9 gallons). Thanks in advance!BEST ANSWER: I don't see why not. Just think about chilling and how long your hops are going to stay in contact with hot wort and the resulting impact on bitterness.
Making a yeast starter would probably be even more important.
Haven't done it... I use the BIAB batches for my older gear and for quick brew days. I use my newer 15 gal kettle for "full-size" batches.Priming Sugar - should I use 3 oz sugar for BIAB? (first time doing BIAB - used to the 5 gal. kits)BEST ANSWER: That sounds appropriate, perhaps on the high side considering a calculator I use. Generally when I buy these 3 gallon BIAB kits is this calculator: http://www.northernbrewer.com/priming-sugar-calculator
I recommend using 65-70 as your beer temp even if you cold crash (chilling beer in fridge overnight to make it clearer). I cold crashed a batch and reduced the sugar in one of my batches and the carbonation was too low. So simply use standard room temp as the temp for the calculator.