- Product Details
The Blichmann Engineering Fermenator is the ultimate in home fermentation. This stainless steel conical fermentor features a weld-free interior, a dump valve for removing yeast and sediment, and a rotating racking arm for transferring. After your primary fermentation is complete you can simply remove the yeast from the conical section using the dump valve and go straight into secondary fermentation without transferring. The lid is a removable soda keg-style hatch that is pressure capable, allowing you to easily transfer using co2 to minimize air exposure.
Please allow 1-3 weeks for delivery, as Fermenators ship directly from the manufacturer via FedEx Ground.For detailed information on sizing and specs, click here. The options below allow you to add on leg extensions, casters, and the tri-clamp blow off assembly. Other features include: * Unlike glass carboys, the Fermenator is impervious to heat, won't shatter, and won't admit light. * Unlike plastic buckets or plastic conical fermenters, they won't scratch, discolor, or harbor bacteria. * Large-diameter top means an accessible interior for easy cleaning. * Rotating racking arm makes for simple, sanitary, sediment-free racking—no siphoning. * Replaceable threaded fittings * Directional 90° bottom dump * Stainless 3-piece ball valves * Folding carry handles * Beaded silicone lid seal * Channel-shaped legs: welded to tank wall exterior, with scratch-preventing pads on the feet * 304 stainless steel * 14 gauge flange; 16 gauge sidewall; 18 gauge cone
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Browse 2 questions and 11 answersShow all answers | Sort byhow do you maintain correct temperature?Best Answer: Even the large fermenators are designed around the ability to get into a large stand up fridge. Our fermentation heating wraps work pretty well for heating as well, you can slap a couple of those on there.How much beer is left over in 7 gallon fermenator after racking?Best Answer: Well, I have the 14 gallon version, but I suppose the answer is similar. The key part of it is paying attention to the rotating racking arm as the level gets lower. It acts like a siphon, and if you lose the suction, you can't start it again. Once you get the hang of that, you should be able to get almost all of the clear beer out, leaving only the sediment and a tad of beer above it. Also, since the beer is lowering in the cone rather than sliding across a flat bottom, like in a tilted carboy or bucket, there is less mixing of sediment into the last bit of beer. Fully rotated, the racking arm will pick up all but about a pint of contents. Typically, that is about 2/3 or so yeast sediment and trub, so the amount of beer left is maybe around a half cup or so.
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