Just for fun we put together some of the best homebrew hacks.

0317-NB-SP-HopShot-820

Short Pour: HopShot for your Beer, Not your Eyes

Step One: Preparation

You’ll Need:

A list or knowledge of your home brewing equipment, ingredients and some sanitizer.

Directions:

Success, so the saying goes, is 90% preparation and 10% inspiration, and so it is with beer. Brewing beer involves
boiling malt, hops and water to create a grainy, sugary liquid.

Next, we add a fungus – yeast – to the wort, allow for time to pass and we have flat, warm beer.

Finally, we mix this warm, flat beer with a bit of sugar and bottle it, which will result in carbonated beer after a week or
two.

But, let’s step back a moment. We add a fungus? Sure. Yeast is a fungus, a very special fungus, it is the crucial
element to the creation of beer, it is what converts sugars into alcohol. We want to create an environment in which the
yeast is happy; where the yeast is allowed to eat away at sugars without any competition. Competition means the yeast
is unable to produce alcohol and even worse, competition means that some other element has entered our beer.
Chances are this other element is bacteria. Bacteria will create off flavors in beer, beer that tastes, smells or feels
unlike beer should, perhaps a strong smell of vinegar, a taste of cardboard, a viscous feel. Yuck.

To prevent the introduction of such odd elements, we clean and sanitize. It is the most important task of the entire
brewing process. You must clean well everything that your beer may come in contact with, and just before use you
must sanitize this equipment as well. Your brew kettle will not need to be sanitized as the boiling wort will accomplish
this, but you will want the kettle clean.

There are many sanitizing solutions on the market, each with their own direction. Most are quick and easy to use. For
example, Easy Clean: 1-Tablespoon Cleanser per 1-Gallon warm water and 2 minutes of contact time. No rinsing
required.

Equipment:

Sanitizer: Sanitizer keeps your equipment clean and prevents infection.

Brew Kettles: Used for boiling your wort.

Fermentation Vessel: A container used to ferment your beer.

Fermentation Lock: Keeps your beer from being oxidized during fermentation.

Spoon: Used for whirlpooling and helps prevent boilovers.

Hydrometer: Use the hydrometer to figure out your original and final gravity.

Bottles: Once your beer has fermented, bottle it for serving.

Auto Siphon: The auto siphon to transfers beer between fermentation vessels.

Bottle Cappers: An essential piece of equipment, fastens caps to the bottle.

Bottle Caps: We have a variety of closures that work with many different bottles.

Starter Kits: Choose a variety of Starter Kits to begin brewing!

Ingredients:

All Northern Brewer Recipe Kits and for that matter nearly all beer will have four basic ingredients: Malt, Hops, Yeast
and water. Don’t be fooled by the length of this list; there is enormous variety within each of these categories, enough
to produce the wondrous array of beers available today, from the palest pilsner to the blackest stout and everything in
between.

Some recipes and kits may also include specialty grains, sugars or spices.

You provide the most basic ingredient for your beer, water. Water chemistry can make a dramatic difference in your
beer, but if your water tastes good to drink, it is fit for brewing.

Malt:

Beer is brewed by fermenting the sugars of malted barley and other cereal grains. Brewers utilize the process of
malting, wherein seeds are prompted to sprout, after which growth is stopped through kiln drying, to eventually access
these sugars. Malting stimulates amylase enzyme production within the grain. Brewers crush the malted grain and soak
it in hot water in a process known as “mashing.” This activates the enzymes, which convert the grain’s starch into
sugars. These sugars are then rinsed from the grain and the resulting liquid, known as “wort”, is boiled with hops and
other ingredients. After boiling and cooling the wort yeast is added to ferment the substance and produce delicious
beer.

Most new brewers prefer not to perform the mashing step themselves. Liquid malt extract and dry malt extract are the
concentrated results of this process, malt sugars that have been produced by mashing and packaged for later use.
Extract brewers then steep a small amount (usually about 1 pound) of specialty grains to provide specific malt flavors
and color in the finished beer.

Hops:

Hops are the cone-shaped flower of the perennial Humulus lupulus plant. Hops are added to wort to impart a bitterness
perfect to balance the sweetness of malt and to provide a wide variety of flavors and aromas. In addition to the
bittering, flavoring and aromatic qualities that hops bring to beer, they also serve as a stability agent, preventing
spoilage, contribute to head retention and act as a natural clarifier. While the use of hops in brewing is the norm today,
it wasn’t until the eleventh century that hop use was first documented in Germany and not until the sixteenth century
the use of hops became common to British brewers. Prior to this introduction beers were flavored and preserved with
plants such as heather, rosemary, anise, spruce and wormwood; adventurous brewers still use these ingredients today.
Particular hop varieties are often associated with particular beer styles, regions or even a particular brewery’s
signature style. Hops are grown in countless varieties. All hops contain alpha and beta acids, it is these acids that
contribute to the stability and bitterness of the beer.

Hops also contain a host of essential oils which can boil off if added early in the boiling process but which lend
characteristic flavor and aroma when added later in the boil or even after fermentation. Each hop varietal can
contribute dramatically different qualities of bitterness, flavor and aroma to beer. These flavors and aromas are often
described as grassy, floral, citrusy, flowery, spicy, earthy, etc. Hops are often found as pellets, plugs or whole leaf. A
staple of homebrew stores, you can also grow your own!

Yeast:

In 1516, The Reinheitsgebot, or German Beer Purity Law, listed the only allowable ingredients for brewing beer to be
malt, hops and water. As you can see, at one time, yeast was an unknown element, the primary agent of fermentation
being completely mysterious! The Vikings found that if they reused the stick used to stir their beer, it would help start
the next fermentation process. These ‘magic sticks’ were so valuable they were often family heirlooms passed from
generation to generation. In truth we now know that these sticks carried the family yeast culture, the crucial element in
fermenting wort to create beer. Fortunately for German brewers the Reinheitsgebot was amended rightly to include
yeast after the microorganisms were discovered.

There is an old saying: brewers make wort, yeast makes beer.

So just what is yeast?

Yeast is a type of fungus. An organism that reproduces asexually, it is unusual in that it can live with or without oxygen.
In a low oxygen environment yeast cells consume sugars and in return produce carbon dioxide and alcohol as waste
products. This process is fermentation. Yeast is used in making wine, mead and cider as well as beer. Brewing yeast
tends to be classified as either “top fermenting” or “bottom fermenting”. As the names indicate, the yeast strains tend to
be most active towards the top and bottom of the wort respectively, though the cells are dispersed throughout. Top
fermenting yeasts produce an ale style beer, bottom fermenting a lager style beer. These yeast strains are actually two
different species, differentiated by temperature tolerance as well as a few other factors. Ale strains prefer warmer
temperatures while lager strains ferment best at cooler temperatures.

Homebrew Hacks

Homebrew Hack #4 – Fight the Glug!
As much as we love standing at a sink, wasting the day away while the water in our carboy is glug-glug-glugging down the drain, Corey doesn’t love it. He’d rather be relaxing, not worrying and having a homebrew. Here’s our Homebrew Hack for Corey and every other homebrewer who would rather spend their time drinking a beer than dumping a fermentor.

Homebrew Hack #3 – Warp Speed Wort Chilling
You thought your immersion chiller was fast? It just got faster.Learn how to chill wort faster than the speed of light with this simple technique.

Homebrew Hack #2 – Drain the Main Grain… Bag that is.
Got a bag of grain to drain? We show you haw to drain the grain bag using a common office supply… the big clip. Got a good way to drain your grain? Post a reply video!

Homebrew Hack #1 – 25 Ways to Open a Bottle…
Hope you enjoy learning a few ways to open a bottle here at Northern Brewer.

Priming and Bottling Your Beer

Priming and Bottling Your Beer

Objective:

To maintain sanitation and successfully prime, bottle and condition your beer.

You’ll Need:

Bottles, caps, capper, bottling bucket, priming sugar, siphon, bottle filler and sanitizer.

Preparation

You have been away from your brew and equipment for some time now. Do you remember when it was stated, “sanitation is the most important task of the entire brewing process”? It is worth stating again here. Prior to bottling your brew, you will need to sanitize anything that will come in contact with your beer.

Equipment to be sanitized and used in bottling:

  1. Bottling Bucket
  2. Beer Bottles
  3. Bottle Caps
  4. Auto-Siphon
  5. Priming Sugar

Racking:

You will have noticed your brew is now sitting atop a layer of trub, This sediment is made up of hop pieces, dead yeast and malt brewing materials. While not harmful to consume, it is not pleasant. Racking is the process of carefully moving beer off of the trub. We rack beer from primary to secondary fermenter and from fermenter to bottling bucket. Raking to a bottling bucket allows you to fully mix your priming solution and beer. Mixing in the priming sugar will allow the yeast to carbonate your beer in the bottle.

Gravity is Your Friend: When racking, your filled container must be at least several feet higher than the empty vessel which you intend to fill.

Siphoning and Priming

Add your priming solution to the bottom of your empty bottling bucket:

Make sure the bottle bucket valve is closed.

Insert your auto-siphon into your carboy:

Your siphon should be deep enough so as to actually begin to siphon yet not so deep as to disturb and begin to move the trub. Start with your siphon about 3 inches deep into your beer and slowly move deeper as your liquid is displaced into the bottling bucket. When close to the trub watch closely, you will want to stop siphoning prior to pulling any sediment. Siphon Smart!

Move your carboy and siphon off to the side, you will now focus on your bottling bucket:

You may need to reposition this bucket so that you can open the valve and insert a beer bottle.

How Long is Your Tube? Have enough tubing to allow the tube to rest within your bottling bucket, this way, your beer won’t splash as it enters the bucket.

Filling and Capping

Fill your bottles:

The best way to bottle is to use a bottle filler attached by a short length of tubing to your bottling bucket’s spigot. Fill your bottles so as to leave about 3/4 inch of headroom at the top of your bottle.

Cap your bottles:

Carefully place your cap onto the bottle, then position the capper atop both and with equal pressure on the capper handles pull down to the side of the bottle, crimping the cap to the bottle.

Condition/Storage

Why we carbonate beer:

The same reason that you may not want to drink a flat Coke product. For most, carbonated beer simply tastes better, the carbonation imparts a wonderful means of rounding out flavors and quenching your thirst. As a matter of fact, different beer styles call for different levels of carbonation. Some brews are force carbonated through kegging but many that homebrewers work with are ‘bottle conditioned’. Bottle conditioning involves adding a measured dose of sugar to your brew that will cause a small, controlled fermentation in the bottle. The CO2 that is released from this mini-fermentation will carbonate the beer. We create this mini-fermentation by adding a priming solution to our beer prior to bottling.

Use the right bottle:

Capping our bottles assures we protect our brew from any errant bacteria and it is vital that our caps, just like any of our other equipment, are sanitized and in good condition. You can cap any bottle that is a pry off style. Screw top bottles are not compatible, often missing the lip required by the capper and presenting an uneven sealing surface which can lead to breakage. Broken glass in our new brew = no brew.

The Wait is Over

You began a few weeks ago. Your brew day started the process of making wort. Your fermentation process made that wort into beer. You have carefully capped your bottles and primed them with sugar. After capping, you waited for the carbonation level to be just right. Today is the day.

beer bottling in growlers

Go ahead and chill your bottle and open just as you would any other beer. Carefully pour your beer into a glass to inspect color, carbonation, smell. Keep in mind this is a homebrew, you may find a small amount of yeast sediment at the bottom of your bottle. This is residual from the use of priming sugar, it is what brewers call ‘bottle conditioned’. Stop pouring just prior to this sediment and discard.

Ready to brew your next batch? Northern Brewer has plenty of kits to choose from!

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How to Make Beer

How To Make Beer

Objective:

To prepare “wort” by boiling malt and hops, chill the wort and pitch the yeast.

You’ll Need:

Your kettle, fermenter, funnel (optional), sanitizer, hydrometer and ingredient kit.

Directions:

Brewing is a process. The process involves boiling and chilling, a period of fermentation and finally bottling and storage.

Pre Boil Preparation:

Objective: To ensure you have the necessary equipment and ingredients to proceed with brewing.
You’ll Need: A list or knowledge of your equipment, ingredients and some sanitizer.

Yeast Preparation:

You may be using liquid yeast or dry yeast. If using liquid yeast, a Wyeast ‘smack pack’. You will activate the pack by breaking the inner pouch with a firm smack. Let the pack incubate at room temp for a least three hours. The best way to use Wyeast is to smack it a few hours before (or the night before) you plan to start brewing, and make sure that it inflates before you start the process. If you have dry yeast, simply allow the yeast to warm to room temperature. We will be using the yeast later on, set aside.

Water:

Fill your brew kettle with 2.5 gallons of water. Any good quality drinking water is fine to use.

Steep Specialty Grains:

Not all recipes or kits involve specialty grains. If your recipe grain does not involve specialty grains, proceed to step 4. Specialty grains add extra color and flavor to your finished beer. Specialty grains are steeped as you would a tea bag in hot water. Add grains to your muslin bag, soaking in the heating water for about twenty minutes or until the temperature of the water reaches 170 degrees Fahrenheit. Do not steep the grains in water over 170 degrees, as this will result in a bitter flavor.

Adding Malt

As you boil your malt, you will notice some changes in your brew kettle. A foamy substance will slowly rise and cover your kettle surface. The foam is a product of the proteins present in the malt. These proteins begin to coagulate during the boiling process and rise to the surface, when clumped together, the proteins will become heavy and drop to the bottom of your pot again. This process may take anywhere from five to twenty five minutes. This is referred to as the “hot break”. Many brewers will await the hot break before beginning their hop additions and timing their 60 minute boil. It is not, however, required.

To cover or not to cover, that is the question, and a good question at that. Covering your brew kettle will help achieve a quicker boil, but it if the cover is left on during the boil it can also contribute to an off-flavor in your finished product. When you boil your malt, you boil off sulfur compounds. Without the lid, the compounds boil off as vapor, with the lid on, they may reappear as condensate, dripping back into your kettle and creeping into your finished beer. Once you have the liquid boiling, leave the cover off.

We now have wort! Wort (pronounced ‘wert’) is the combination of liquid grain sugars and water. This sweet wort will be transformed as we add hops in our boiling period and later when we add yeast to begin our fermentation process during which the wort finally becomes beer.

Adding Hops

Hop additions are typically performed according to what is called a hop schedule. The schedule is the order that the hops are added. While some brews may only call for one type of hop added at one time, typically there are more. Usually, the hop added earliest in the boil is the varietal responsible for bittering the beer, while those added towards the end of the boil contribute to flavoring and aroma. Hops are added with the amount of time they need to boil in mind, therefore times referenced are always those prior to the end of boil.

In this schedule, add the Goldings at the very start of the boil, which lasts 60 minutes. Add the Liberty 10 minutes before the end of the boil so as to boil for 10 minutes. Add the Willamette 5 minutes before the end of the boil so as to boil for 5 minutes.

Variances in hop additions can dramatically alter a beer recipe. If you are new to brewing and want assured results, follow the hop addition schedule in your recipe kit. As you become more experienced, play around with your hop additions, you may find you like the results! Recipes may call for other additions like spices, sugars or more malt. Treat these just like hops and add them to the kettle at their specified times.

WARNING! The watched pot never boils, but the unwatched pot always boils over. If the wort starts to froth up dramatically towards the top of your kettle, immediately cut the heat and stir. Boilovers will leave your nice stovetop a sticky, scorched and perhaps damaged mess. Stay in the brewhouse, not the doghouse!

Chilling

Yeast is highly temperature specific. Yeast varieties not only thrive in particular temperature, they can only exist in particular temperatures ranges. Temperatures too cold and too hot will kill your yeast.

Remember, No Yeast = No Beer

The extreme heat of the boil will surely kill your yeast. Before we even think to add our yeast we must make sure our wort is within a tolerable temperature range. The easiest way to do so is to use a cold water bath. Simply put your brew kettle in this cold water, replacing the water as necessary to ensure the temperature decreases quickly. You may even add ice cubes to this water bath.

During this water bath, you will want to keep your brew kettle covered almost all the way to protect the wort from any airborne microbes. Have you sanitized your fermenting equipment? Now is the perfect time. If you think back to discussion of preparation we noted the most important aspect of the brewing process was to clean and sanitize our equipment. Anything that may come into contact with our brewed wort must be sanitized. Brewers go through a lot of trouble to make sure yeast will thrive to transform our wort into beer. Any other elements introduced to the wort will compete with the yeast and may result in off flavors and an undrinkable beer.

When the temperature of the wort has fallen below 100 degrees Fahrenheit you can top it up with cold water to bring the temperature down to the appropriate range for your yeast. Then it’s time to get ready for fermentation.

Transferring

Slow and steady wins the race. Slow and steady also prevents precious beer spillage and tedious cleanup after brew day. Now that you have cooled your wort, you will need to transfer it to a fermentation vessel. Remember, this may be a bucket, this may be a carboy, but either one should be sanitized.

  1. Add two gallons of cool water to your fermenter. It is handy to have a gallon water jug around to avoid ‘eyeballing’ your gallons.
  2. Next, pour in the cooled wort. Leave behind any thick sludge in the bottom of your kettle.
  3. Add more cool water. This brings the total volume of your fermentation vessel to five gallons.
  4. Finally, seal the fermenter. Gently rock the wort back and forth for a few minutes to aerate for fermentation.

Measure your brew’s specific gravity with a hydrometer. Hydrometer readings before and after fermentation tells us whether or not fermentation is complete and can help estimate the alcohol content of the finished beer. Record this number, your original specific gravity (OG) to use as a reference moving forward.

Pitching Yeast

Patience is a Virtue:

The fermentation process, the process that converts our wort to beer, begins on brew day and ends a week or two later.

Pitch the Yeast:

The brewing term for adding yeast to wort is pitching. Early on in our brew day instructions, step number one in fact, we prepared our yeast for this moment. You either gave a good whack to your Wyeast Smack Pack or you brought your dry yeast out of refrigeration to warm to room temperature. Go ahead and sanitize a pair of scissors and sanitize the area you will cut on the actual yeast package. Remember, odd elements, bacteria and the like can destroy our beer. Sanitize, sanitize, sanitize. Open your packet, if you have liquid yeast, go ahead and pour it directly into the wort, if you have dry yeast, sprinkle it on the surface of the wort.

Seal Your Lid:

Seal the lid of your fermentation vessel, fill the airlock with some of your sanitizer solution and move your vessel into a dark, quiet spot. Basements and closets are great places to store your beer during the fermentation process. The temperature of your brew will typically remain somewhat steady and your brew will encounter little exposure to light. You may want to store your brew in an area that is easily cleaned, a particularly violent fermentation could cause a bit of a mess.

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Essential Equipment For Brewing Beer

Essential Equipment For Brewing Beer

Objective:

To ensure you have the necessary equipment and ingredients to proceed with brewing.

You’ll Need:

A list or knowledge of your home brewing equipment, ingredients and some sanitizer.

Directions:

Success, so the saying goes, is 90% preparation and 10% inspiration, and so it is with beer. Brewing beer involves boiling malt, hops and water to create a grainy, sugary liquid.

Next, we add a fungus – yeast – to the wort, allow for time to pass and we have flat, warm beer.

Finally, we mix this warm, flat beer with a bit of sugar and bottle it, which will result in carbonated beer after a week or two.

But, let’s step back a moment. We add a fungus? Sure. Yeast is a fungus, a very special fungus, it is the crucial element to the creation of beer, it is what converts sugars into alcohol. We want to create an environment in which the yeast is happy; where the yeast is allowed to eat away at sugars without any competition. Competition means the yeast is unable to produce alcohol and even worse, competition means that some other element has entered our beer. Chances are this other element is bacteria. Bacteria will create off flavors in beer, beer that tastes, smells or feels unlike beer should, perhaps a strong smell of vinegar, a taste of cardboard, a viscous feel. Yuck.

To prevent the introduction of such odd elements, we clean and sanitize. It is the most important task of the entire brewing process. You must clean well everything that your beer may come in contact with, and just before use you must sanitize this equipment as well. Your brew kettle will not need to be sanitized as the boiling wort will accomplish this, but you will want the kettle clean.

There are many sanitizing solutions on the market, each with their own direction. Most are quick and easy to use. For example, Easy Clean: 1-Tablespoon Cleanser per 1-Gallon warm water and 2 minutes of contact time. No rinsing required.

Equipment:

  • Sanitizer: Sanitizer keeps your equipment clean and prevents infection.
  • Brew Kettles: Used for boiling your wort.
  • Fermentation Vessel: A container used to ferment your beer.
  • Fermentation Lock: Keeps your beer from being oxidized during fermentation.
  • Spoon: Used for whirlpooling and helps prevent boilovers.
  • Hydrometer: Use the hydrometer to figure out your original and final gravity.
  • Bottles: Once your beer has fermented, bottle it for serving.
  • Auto Siphon: The auto siphon to transfers beer between fermentation vessels.
  • Bottle Cappers: An essential piece of equipment, fastens caps to the bottle.
  • Bottle Caps: We have a variety of closures that work with many different bottles.
  • Starter Kits: Choose a variety of Starter Kits to begin brewing!

Ingredients:

All Northern Brewer Recipe Kits and for that matter nearly all beer will have four basic ingredients: Malt, Hops, Yeast and water. Don’t be fooled by the length of this list; there is enormous variety within each of these categories, enough to produce the wondrous array of beers available today, from the palest pilsner to the blackest stout and everything in between.

Some recipes and kits may also include specialty grains, sugars or spices.

You provide the most basic ingredient for your beer, water. Water chemistry can make a dramatic difference in your beer, but if your water tastes good to drink, it is fit for brewing.

Malt:

Beer is brewed by fermenting the sugars of malted barley and other cereal grains. Brewers utilize the process of malting, wherein seeds are prompted to sprout, after which growth is stopped through kiln drying, to eventually access these sugars. Malting stimulates amylase enzyme production within the grain. Brewers crush the malted grain and soak it in hot water in a process known as “mashing.” This activates the enzymes, which convert the grain’s starch into sugars. These sugars are then rinsed from the grain and the resulting liquid, known as “wort”, is boiled with hops and other ingredients. After boiling and cooling the wort yeast is added to ferment the substance and produce delicious beer.

Most new brewers prefer not to perform the mashing step themselves. Liquid malt extract and dry malt extract are the concentrated results of this process, malt sugars that have been produced by mashing and packaged for later use. Extract brewers then steep a small amount (usually about 1 pound) of specialty grains to provide specific malt flavors and color in the finished beer.

Hops:

Hops are the cone-shaped flower of the perennial Humulus lupulus plant. Hops are added to wort to impart a bitterness perfect to balance the sweetness of malt and to provide a wide variety of flavors and aromas. In addition to the bittering, flavoring and aromatic qualities that hops bring to beer, they also serve as a stability agent, preventing spoilage, contribute to head retention and act as a natural clarifier. While the use of hops in brewing is the norm today, it wasn’t until the eleventh century that hop use was first documented in Germany and not until the sixteenth century the use of hops became common to British brewers. Prior to this introduction beers were flavored and preserved with plants such as heather, rosemary, anise, spruce and wormwood; adventurous brewers still use these ingredients today. Particular hop varieties are often associated with particular beer styles, regions or even a particular brewery’s signature style. Hops are grown in countless varieties. All hops contain alpha and beta acids, it is these acids that contribute to the stability and bitterness of the beer.

Hops also contain a host of essential oils which can boil off if added early in the boiling process but which lend characteristic flavor and aroma when added later in the boil or even after fermentation. Each hop varietal can contribute dramatically different qualities of bitterness, flavor and aroma to beer. These flavors and aromas are often described as grassy, floral, citrusy, flowery, spicy, earthy, etc. Hops are often found as pellets, plugs or whole leaf. A staple of homebrew stores, you can also grow your own!

Yeast:

In 1516, The Reinheitsgebot, or German Beer Purity Law, listed the only allowable ingredients for brewing beer to be malt, hops and water. As you can see, at one time, yeast was an unknown element, the primary agent of fermentation being completely mysterious! The Vikings found that if they reused the stick used to stir their beer, it would help start the next fermentation process. These ‘magic sticks’ were so valuable they were often family heirlooms passed from generation to generation. In truth we now know that these sticks carried the family yeast culture, the crucial element in fermenting wort to create beer. Fortunately for German brewers the Reinheitsgebot was amended rightly to include yeast after the microorganisms were discovered.

There is an old saying: brewers make wort, yeast makes beer.

So just what is yeast?
Yeast is a type of fungus. An organism that reproduces asexually, it is unusual in that it can live with or without oxygen. In a low oxygen environment yeast cells consume sugars and in return produce carbon dioxide and alcohol as waste products. This process is fermentation. Yeast is used in making wine, mead and cider as well as beer. Brewing yeast tends to be classified as either “top fermenting” or “bottom fermenting”. As the names indicate, the yeast strains tend to be most active towards the top and bottom of the wort respectively, though the cells are dispersed throughout. Top fermenting yeasts produce an ale style beer, bottom fermenting a lager style beer. These yeast strains are actually two different species, differentiated by temperature tolerance as well as a few other factors. Ale strains prefer warmer temperatures while lager strains ferment best at cooler temperatures.

Continue to Step 2 >>