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- Product Details
- It's brown, it's named after a large North American ungulate, and its name suggests oral incontinence. Ah, we market product with our minds, but we drink beer with our mouths! Which is why this American brown ale is your new favorite session beer. Dense layers of malt, caramel, baking chocolate, and a hint of light-roast coffee give way to reveal a hop character you'll be surprised to find if you're used to drinking English brown ale. The finish is complex but balanced, and the gravity is not so high as to keep you from having another.
- Additional Information
Beer Kit Yield 5 Gallons Recipe and Instructions Click Here for Caribou Slobber Extract Kit Brewing Instructions Regional Style USA Original Gravity 1052 Total Time to Make 6 weeks
- 4.7 / 5.0462 ReviewsMy favoriteOne of my favorite styles of beer. One of the most underappreciated styles as well. Every time I brew it i am brought back to the first time I brewed it. The taste is unmatched, and a hard beer to screw up. I've started priming it with coconut sugar and it adds a really nice sweet note to the finish. Now I'm switching to all grain I hope I get the same flavor with that!September 17, 2017Purchased
5 months agoThis beer is a crowd favorite! It is very consistent. I have brewed it both with the extract kit as well as the all grain version. I will definitely brew it again and again. Always good to have some of this one in the KEG!September 12, 2017Purchased
5 months agoTook a whileI thought about giving this beer 4 stars as it took about 6 months for it to really "get good". I had it that long because I did not want to drink it or give it to friends. I opened one just to give it one last shot about a week ago. Well, lesson learned, it is just fantastic. I am discovering that the extract recipes seem to take longer to mature than all grain.September 9, 2017Good bucket o' suds!This brown ale is near-to-perfect if you like 'em malty and dark with a touch of mystery. Straight out of the box it's a good pair with aged Swiss or cheddar cheese. It can easily be tweaked with the addition of more malt, some peated grain and bottle-conditioning with molasses to make something much more like a "wee heavy" true Scottish ale.September 2, 2017Purchased
5 months agogreat just greatthird NB kit (Ringer and Bourbon Porter) - great stuff - I did not boil my top off water, just shot it straight into the ferm using the sprayer on my kitch faucet to gain some aeration - I think it helped - had some early (~1mo), was good - but after a full month of bottle conditioning it was really one of the best and a real crowd pleaser. (windsor dry, temp controller, 3 weeks primary, no secondary)August 16, 2017Purchased
10 months agoExcellentI read other reviews and decided to try it. I tried it one day after kegging it so it was flat but still had a great flavor and smell. I am going to try it again in a week, if I can wait that long.July 21, 2017Purchased
6 months agoVery good. Reminds me of Guinness BlondeLike it a lot. I tried adding a few extra items. Two extra tablespoons of Bakers chocolate which did not change anything. I also added a cup of Butter Pecan pancake syrup to the last 5 of the boil. The fermentation was very aggressive and I might have let it sit a little too long. Gave some off flavors (clove) compared to the first batch.July 20, 2017Purchased
8 months agoOverly bitter, but nice aroma.I am usually a fan of stouts with similar descriptions as Caribou Slobber, but this kit turned out far too bitter. Another issue is it ended up being excessively carbonated and foamy. 2 bottles exploded after 1 week of bottling, and I immediately refrigerated the rest of the batch to prevent further shattered bottles. Followed the kit exactly, not sure where it went bad at.July 11, 2017My Favorite!So far, I like this one the best. Very smooth and excellent flavor. Not as bitter as the Irish Red Ale, which is also a good beer.July 8, 2017Purchased
7 months agoCaribou SlobberThe reason I gave it such a low rating is because I had to throw it out. Something happened and mold formed on the top of the beer. I contacted your brewmasters immediately and they took care of my problem. Tom B said you will be sending me another kit on Monday. Hopefully the next batch will be better. When I made the one gallon batch of Caribou Slobber I had no problems and we have decided that it is probably our favorite among all of the small batch kits I've made.July 2, 2017Purchased
7 months ago
- Browse 21 questions Browse 21 questions and 60 answersI'm a first-time home brewer making the caribou slobber that came with my brewery-in-a-box kit. Active fermentation started in only 2 hours after the boil and lasted for about 3 days before slowing down and the cap of foam receeded. (That was exciting!) It has been in the 6-gal, glass primary for 17 days now and I'm lucky to see an air bubble come through the airlock once an hour. According to the directions I am supposed to transfer to the 5-gal, glass secondary but I've read elsewhere that this is risky due to oxygen and infection. I've also read that leaving in the primary too long can create off-flavors from the trub. Full disclosure: I dumped the hop pellets, grain dust, etc. from the kettle into the fermentor. Oops!
Will this beer be okay left in only the primary or should I move to secondary before bottling?BEST ANSWER: You really can do either. We recommend a secondary as it creates beer with better clarity should help the beer taste better too. Sanitize the transfer equipment and carboy very well, then there is no risk of infection. If you transfer slowly and carefully, watching the end of the transfer tube to ensure liquid is not splashing and you have nothing to worry about for oxygen. The simple answer you can do it either way, and you will have to decide if you think a secondary is worth the effort. We think it is and guarantee the results of the recipes if you follow them...so why not do the secondary, if any issue arises, you can always get a replacement.I started my Brew about 5 days ago and followed the directions pretty precisely as far as I can tell, I've read them a few times to be sure... temp was and is as recommended. However I haven't seen bubbles in my airlock like I normally do. Any suggestions?BEST ANSWER: If you have residue from the initial reaction on top, then you are ok. I've experienced that many times I don't see as active a fermentation from Carbou as other extract kits.I am wanting to order this as a gift. I am unsure which yeast and priming option is best ?BEST ANSWER: I used the Danstar Windsor yeast and my brew came out perfect. I prefer to batch prime, so I used the priming sugar instead of fizz drops. It all comes down to personal preference, really. You could go with any of the selections and it'd come out great.Is it possible that the primary fermentation finished in just over 3 days? After the 3 days of very vigorous fermentation all activity stopped and the cap of foam fell back onto the beer. The temperature fell to around 58F. I moved the beer to 66F but still no activity. Currently my specific gravity is 1.023 and has remained relatively unchanged for the past couple days. Total time in primary is now 7 days.BEST ANSWER: It slows down drastically in 3 days but is not done. I would go 2 weeks primary then rack it in secondary for 2 more weeks. Temp a touch cold at 58 but yeast should be fine not sure what you used starter no starter dry or smack pack. See if it will go down to 1.010 . Test it before you bottle or keg if yeast problem with temp it will taste like garden hose water. I say your fine a brew on enjoy it it is a awesome beerDo I need to use the fast pitch yeast starter with danstar windsor ale dry yeast? order info saying it is required but i did not order anyBEST ANSWER: Thank you for contacting Northern Brewer. No, you do not need to purchase Fast Pitch for dry yeast. Fast Pitch is used with liquid yeast to create a yeast starter. We suggest just pitching the yeast directly into the aerated wort, instead of rehydrating, as there is less room for error and it will rehydrate in the wort. Cheers!Do I need to pitch yeast for secondary fermentation? Also, it only came with dry yeast, should I buy the liquid too?BEST ANSWER: Secondary fermentation is to let it develop and to let the yeast clean up some of their own byproducts. Letting the beer sit on the dead yeast in the bottom of the fermentation vessel can sometimes create off flavors so moving to a second vessel gets the beer off the dead yeast. This secondary "fermentation" does not need additional pitching of yeast.
Do one yeast or the other. I think the dry yeast is fine, and makes a great beer. The liquid stuff is fun to play with but comes at a cost $.After 10 days in primary it went from 1.052 to 1.020. The last 2 days in primary and the first 2 in secondary the airlock hasn't bubbled at all. It still reads at 1.020. Room temp is usually around 63. Should I just let it sit or is there something I should do to drop the gravity a bit more?BEST ANSWER: I brewed this beer towards the end of June using the Danstar Windsor Ale Yeast. I left it two weeks in the primary, and a week and a half in the secondary before bottling. I too ended up with a FG of 1.020. Concerned that this was rather high compared to other beers that I've brewed, (mostly pale ales), I consulted the Danstar website and read through the specs on the Winsor Ale yeast. What I learned is that the Windsor strain of yeast does not utilize the sugar maltotriose. Maltotriose is present in wort at an average of 10-15% of all malt worts. The result will be fuller body and a residual sweetness in the beer. My original concern was that I might end up with over carbonated beer, or maybe worse (aka-bottle bombs) after adding 5 ounces of priming sugar to an already high final gravity beer. But given my new knowledge of the character of this yeast, I concluded that the fermentation had gone just as it should have. After 2 weeks in the bottle, the beer actually ended up with less carbonation than I expected. The beer definatley has the residual sweetness that Danstar said it would, but I'm convinced that this is the way it's supposed to turn out.I would like to do a full volume boil. How much water would I start with and how would I adjust the additions and their boil times?BEST ANSWER: I have never done a full volume boil of this beer. I have done several full volume boils of other types and usually use about 6 to 6 1/4 gallons of water and most of the time I hit the mark. Only one time did I wind up a little over but on that one I used 6 1/2 gallons. Sorry this does not answer your specific question.What pressures should I force carbonate Caribou slobber at?BEST ANSWER: I would try 20psi for 24 hours. Set it to 20psi, rock the keg back and forth on its side for about a minute. You will hear the gas absorbing. Disconnect the keg from the co2 and put the keg in your keg Aragorn for 24 hours. Release the pressure valve, hook back up to the gas and set it to 3psi (or your serving pressure), and try it. Should be pretty close, but you can dial it in from there.Would this be good on nitro? Is it dark enough? I have made it and LOVE it on CO2 but looking to get a nitro tap set up.BEST ANSWER: With nitro, you are literally taking co2 out of solution. If you drink the pint while the nitro is cascading then I could see this beer having an awesome aroma and great mouthfeel. After it goes away, it may be lacking. I would give it a try and see what you think.The kit instructions don't give a target abv. Mine is 4.33%, is that about right?BEST ANSWER: Hi Dave,
Thanks for contacting us! 4.33% ABV is certainly in range for what we expect from this kit. Let me know if you have any other questions!
CharlesWhy do you not offer Wyeast 1968/WLP 003 as a option for yeast? It's what the brewer uses, and what I prefer. Yes, it can be a difficult strain to work with, but the results are SO worth it.BEST ANSWER: 1968 is available on the website. YP003 is a limited release offering that is not currently available. If you want to order a different yeast on a beer kit, order the kit with no yeast, then add the alternative yeast to your cart - that is the same price and processed the same.Please help ! Its been 24 Hours since I put my first Caribou Slobber batch into fermenter last night. I pitched at right temperature and within a few minutes I saw bubbles popping out of airlock. I guess temperature dropped down to even 60 and remained in 60's throughout the day. Now I do not see any bubbles , nor do I see any Krausen. As I increase temperature, of the fermentation I see few bubbles. Have I wasted my first batch of Slobber ? Please advice, is it too late to get it right ?BEST ANSWER: First just a little disclosure. I have been brewing for about 5 years, mostly extract but I dabble in all grain as well (4 batches over the last two years. So I am not an expert.
I immediately think of temperature and oxygen when wondering how soon fermentation should start being visible. Just because you don't see bubbles or krausen doesn't mean that the primary fermentation process hasn't begun. It may take up to 36 hours to see action in my experience. If the temperature is in the recommended range of the yeast you used and you provided enough oxygen to the wort it should be good enough for your yeast to complete a full fermentation. Even with low oxygen, fermentation should begin normally, but you will eventually see a stuck fermentation as the yeast runs out of oxygen. So I am thinking you are seeing a delay due to the cold temps. If it doesn't come around after another 24 hours I would have Northern Brewer send you another yeast pack. Your may have received a bad batch. But I would bet that you will see some action in the next 48 hours.
Another suggestion, due to the slow start I would probably forget about transferring to a secondary fermenter. I wouldn't risk the exposure to oxygen. The benefit of using a secondary doesn't justify the risk of oxygen exposure. I would leave the beer in the primary for 3 to four weeks and let the secondary fermentation process run its course in the primary. This will give the yeast more time to consume the more complex sugars and clean the flavor of the beer up. But don't let it sit on the spent yeast protein for more then 4 weeks. Once your active fermentation slows down to a bubble every 5 seconds or so and the krausen begins to fall back into the beer, give it another two weeks. Then check the final gravity to see if fermentation completed and bottle it. I just brewed a batch of caribou slobber and left in the primary for 4 weeks and two days. I kegged it two weeks ago and it came out great. Good luck with yours. Hope it starts bubbling soon.What Gravity is this beer supposed to finish at? I left in the primary for 2.5 weeks and the Gravity was 1.024. Seems high.BEST ANSWER: I had about the same gravityFinished beer is black. No scorching took place during brewing (flame was out while LME was added at start of boil per instructions Saw some forums that stated this is due to caramelizing the wort. Some recommend adding the LME 15 min from end of boil. Any thoughts on this guidance or what else could have contributed to this? Thanks in advance.BEST ANSWER: Might have been due to older extract. Mine turned out dark also, but it might have been because I turned it into Rudolph Snot for Christmas by adding cloves, fresh ginger, allspice, cinnamon sticks and nutmeg. Try it.is three weeks in primary enough? I am not going to use a secondary. Should I let it go longer? Or should I be good to bottle after three weeks?BEST ANSWER: Check the catalog I believe 6 weeks start to finish is a better estimateWhat is the best temp to keep this at while fermenting? I have the Danstar Windsor dry yeast. Thanks.BEST ANSWER: I keep it in my wood shop/ brew cave. I place it on a rug do it is not in direct contact with concrete floor. I cover it with a black plastic bag to keep light off of the fermenter. I keep the shop temperature at 69 -70 degrees for a minimum of 14 days. I transfer to kegs and use gelatin and cold crashing to clarify. Start drinking after minimun of 14 days in keg.I want to add the Cherry puree to one of these kits. Would this be a good one? When do I add it? ThanksBEST ANSWER: I would add it to the secondary. If the puree has any preservatives in it, it may affect the viability of the yeast if put into the primary. I have found with all flavorings, it is best to add small amounts. It is very easy to overdo the flavoring. You want a hint of the flavor "behind the beer", not a malty fruit punch.What are some good extra flavors that are good to add to this beer for secondary fermentation?BEST ANSWER: It really depends on your taste, but chocolate, coffee, vanilla, oak, pecans, honey, and coconut might be worth your consideration. I've always wanted to try mint myself, but if I ever get around to it, I'll keep it a small batch brew.what should the ending gravity be on this. I started at 1060 2 weeks in primary 1 week in sec and Its at 1020. does that sound right it seems alittle high to meBEST ANSWER: That does seem a bit high. I would give it some more time in the primary fermenter, before racking it to the secondary. Take another reading in a week or so and see if it comes down. I would expect it should finish in the 1.014-1.017 range given that it started a little higher than normal.I am looking to do a full volume boil. Do I need to do anything different to the hop additions?